The Sella del Diavolo – or Devil’s Saddle in English – is one of the most famous landmarks in Cagliari. It’s a strip of land right outside of the city, separating Poetto beach from Calamosca Beach.
If you happen to visit Cagliari, you can’t miss a trip to Sella del Diavolo – no matter the season. The Sella del Diavolo is to Cagliari a bit like what Table Mountain is to Cape Town. It’s in the city, but not quite so.
It’s close to the center, but a million miles away and much closer to nature than many other places. It definitely is one of the locals’ favorite spots to escape from the city noise. More than that, it’s a remarkable place under many aspects. It is filled with history and ancient ruins, ready to show you tons of breathtaking views the more you explore it.
Much like the rest of locals, I hike the Sella del Diavolo a few times per year. I have recently discovered new ways of exploring this favorite spot in Cagliari. Now, I am here to share everything I know about it. I will also give you some tips to help you plan your visit and make the most of it.
Love to walk or hike? My posts The Best Walks In Cagliari and The Best Hikes In Sardinia shares ideas on where to go hiking during your trip.
A Short History Of The Sella Del Diavolo
The Sella del Diavolo was inhabited since very early times. Its conformation, full of natural caves, was the ideal shelter for prehistoric men. Furthermore, it was a strategic spot for many populations during the centuries. This was thanks to its position overlooking a good portion of the sea nearby Cagliari.
Recent excavations have brought to light a temple dedicated to the Punic Goddess Astarte. There were also Punic and Roman water tanks. Even the remains of a monastery was found. Moreover, you can see the Aragonese watchtower (known as Torre del Poetto: Poetto’s Tower) still standing.
Located under the Sella del Diavolo there are various caves. One in particular is the Grotta dei Colombi – Doves’ Cave in English. The name comes from the many doves’ nests in the cave. Inside the cave, archeologists found human remains.
After several tests, researchers established that they dated from the 17th century. Back then the cave was likely used to deposit the remains of those who had died from the plague that had hit the island.
Located on the Sella del Diavolo there also are some WWII military buildings.
As you can see, humans have stepped on Sella del Diavolo’s land since the beginning of time. To date, they still haven’t stopped visiting!
The Legend Of The Sella Del Diavolo
You might be wondering what led such a beautiful place to get a name like “The Devil’s Saddle.” Legends tell us a story that happened during Biblical times. This story tries to explain how the Sella del Diavolo got its name.
The legend says that Lucifer, the ruler of Hell, upon seeing the beauty of Cagliari’s Gulf, decided to try and conquer the land. However he was promptly stopped by God, who sent his angels to fight him.
The fight happened in the skies above the Gulf. That’s when Lucifer’s horse was hit and lost its saddle. This fell in the sea and petrified, creating the promontory we have now.
Another version of the myth claims that it was Lucifer who, falling from his horse, landed on the sea. The impact shaped the Devil’s Saddle.
How To Make The Most Of The Sella Del Diavolo
You can hike Sella del Diavolo to get to its peak, and there are two trails to get there.
Main Sella del Diavolo hike
The main Sella del Diavolo hike is a simple hiking route, ideal for amateurs and that won’t require much effort. You can get to the viewpoint overlooking Poetto Beach and Molentargius in about 30 to 45 minutes. After that, continue walking for more views. It will take you the same amount of time to head down.
You will still need hiking shoes or good walking shoes (don’t hike in flip flops!). However, it is not a strenuous hike. You can easily access the trailhead behind Hotel Calamosca in Calamosca Beach. It’s at the opposite side of a military area, restricted to civilians.
The trail is marked by green dots painted on the rocks. The low Mediterranean shrub will allow you to follow the trail without tripping, hurting yourself, or getting lost. You will reach the peak unscathed and with ease.
When you will hike Sella del Diavolo you will find archeological remains, from Punic and Roman ruins to more recent ones including an Aragonese watchtower from the end of the 16th century.
As I have said before, you will get some impressive views. The main panoramic point at Sella del Diavolo gives you a broad vision of Cagliari’s Poetto Beach and area and Molentargius Nature Reserve. You can also continue walking to see the coves at the bottom of the promontory.
Alternative hiking trail
The alternative Sella del Diavolo hike starts behind Cagliari’s Marina Piccola tourist harbor in a spot that is a bit more difficult to find. You will have to go past the main parking lot and towards the harbor and turn to your right to follow a small road that can’t be accessed by cars (there is a bar stopping them) and follow that.
This trail is a bit harder to follow and a bit more challenging, but still well marked. You will go through the vegetation and a large part of it is in the shade, but the views will be incredible throughout.
The first landmark you will reach is the 16th century Aragonese watchtower – a perfect photo spot! You can then continue hiking to get to the main area of the promontory and if you wish you can follow the main trail back down to Calamosca.
In the case of this hike, hiking shoes are a must as the trail can be slippery and quite sandy in bits.
Whichever trail you decide to follow, be sure to bring your camera, because this is a prime photo spot! From the palette of blue to the smallest details, Sella del Diavolo will have a special place on your camera roll, in your heart, and likely in your Instagram!
Join a kayaking expedition or a boat tour
One of the most fun ways of appreciating the beauty of the Devil’s Saddle is during a kayaking expedition. All tours depart from Marina Piccola, where you can either rent a kayak or join a guided tour, and following the guide you will head under and behind the Devil’s Saddle to admire it in all its might.
You will reach some beautiful swimming spots – though there is no such thing as a Sella del Diavolo beach, just some small coves and snorkeling spots. Make sure to bring your snorkeling gear and your camera as you will want to take photos!
Tours typically make various stops along the way. You will swim in two stunning snorkeling spots, visit Cala Fighera Beach (once a famous nudist spot in Cagliari) where you can admire the remains of a fort, go by Calamosca Beach and stop at two different caves (one is the Grotta dei Colombi which I mentioned above, one is a smaller cave you can kayak through).
Depending on the guide, you will also get lots of information on local wildlife (birds and even dolphins can be spotted during the tour).
Most tours depart in the morning, when the sea conditions are usually better, but there are also options for sunset tours.
I recommend this kayaking tour around the Sella del Diavolo. Your guide will take you to all the best spots to snorkel and swim and to visit the small caves such as the Grotta dei Colombi. The tour lasts 4 hours. You will be provided with a dry bag to keep your camera, but you will need to bring water for the tour.
If you don’t feel like kayaking, you can also join this boat tour with 4 stops along the Devil’s Saddle. You will get to snorkel in the clearest waters! Alternatively, there’s also this catamaran tour with aperitifs which is another excellent option for something a bit more slow paced.
My post The Best Boat Tours In Cagliari will guide you to pick the best option for your interests.
Nearby Sights
Cagliari’s Sella del Diavolo separates two beautiful beaches, Poetto and Calamosca. Of course, if you visit in the summer months these are excellent places to spend the rest of the day.
Having said so, there is plenty to do even during the rest of the year. You don’t need a towel and an umbrella to have fun near the Sella del Diavolo!
These are the best spots to visit near the Sella del Diavolo.
Poetto Beach
Many families choose Poetto beach to have a picnic or a day out of town without even having to leave the city. If you want to eat ice cream or drink coffee you will find plenty of nice kiosks – many also serve delicious food. My favorite spot for lunch is Le Palmette, and for gelato I recommend Bobocono.
Many locals come here to do some sports, especially running, or to let their dogs roam free and play with them.
Of course, if you are visiting in the summer you can stop here for the rest of the day to enjoy more sun and to swim some more. There are various places along the beach where you can rent umbrellas and sun beds, but you can also bring your own. Just keep in mind that Poetto Beach can get very crowded during the summer months – it’s a favorite place for locals!
My post A Local Guide To Poetto Beach highlights the history and main sights along the beach.
Calamosca Beach
Calamosca is a stunning beach, with white sand and turquoise waters, especially loved by locals (and more and more tourists) and quite crowded during the summer, but nothing stops you from having a nice walk there in other seasons.
It’s easy to reach by car or bus (n. 11) from Cagliari and, since it’s the main access point to the Sella del Diavolo hike, it is more or less a mandatory stop for your excursion.
Make sure to read my post The Best Beaches In Cagliari for more information on beaches to visit in the area.
Molentargius Nature Reserve
If you enjoy birdwatching, want to spot the famous pink flamingos that live in Cagliari and the rest of Sardinia, or simply feel like a walk in nature without having to go too far from the city, make sure to head to Molentargius Nature Reserve.
It’s easily accessible from Poetto Beach – my favorite access point is the one close to the Ospedale Marino – and various other spots in town and within moments you won’t even feel like you are in the city at all!
The best time to visit for higher chances of seeing the pink flamingos is early in the morning or during the sunset hours, when the birds are more active.
I recommend this 2 hour bike tour in the flamingo oasis or this 4-hour electric bike naturalistic tour – the views along the way are incredible, so don’t forget to bring your camera!
Check out my post A Guide To Molentargius Nature Reserve for more information to visit this unique nature reserve.
Practical Information
How to get to Sella del Diavolo
The Sella del Diavolo is very close to Cagliari and you can easily get there by bus. The urban company CTM operates a line to Calamosca beach, which is the best access point to the trailhead – you will need line 11 to get there.
If you have your own car, follow the directions to Calamosca Beach and park your car there. The trailhead is located close to the beach, behind Hotel Calamosca.
If you want to kayak around the Sella del Diavolo, you will need to get to Marina Piccola. Any bus headed to Poetto makes a stop nearby, so you can opt for that. If you are driving, there’s a large parking lot at Marina Piccola but in the summer months it fills up very early.
If you are joining a guided boat tour of Sella del Diavolo, this will normally depart from the harbor in Cagliari.
Guided tour of Sella del Diavolo
You really don’t need a guide to hike Sella del Diavolo, but in all fairness a guide will certainly add to the experience highlighting its history, legends, sights and much more. There are occasional guided sunset hikes, but you will have to enquire locally as they don’t have regular departures.
If you are visiting in the spring and summer months, you can book a boat or kayak tour of Sella del Diavolo.
I recommend this kayaking tour around the Sella del Diavolo. You will start kayaking at 9:00 am from Marina Piccola and make various stops along the way to swim, snorkel and discover the story of the Sella del Diavolo with your local guide. The tour lasts around 4 hours.
If you don’t feel like kayaking, there’s this boat tour with 4 stops along the Devil’s Saddle. You will have lots of opportunities to snorkel! Alternatively, there’s also this catamaran tour with aperitifs which is the best option if you want something a bit more slow paced.
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Thank you for all this great information. I will be in Caglieri for 3 weeks in October and will follow your suggestions.