The Isola di Mal di Ventre (Mal di Ventre Island in English) is located in the Sinis Protected Area, on the west coast of the central part of Sardinia.
The name of the island in Sardinian language is Malu Entu (which means “bad wind”). This is because it is very exposed to the strong winds – especially the Mistral wind. Such winds make difficult (if not dangerous altogether) sailing around the island.
The sound assonance in Italian made it become “Mal di Ventre”, which literally means “stomachache” but which as you can surely read does not even remotely resemble the actual meaning of the name in Sardinian.
Although sailing to the Isola di Mal di Ventre and around it is still as difficult as in the past, the island remains a favorite destination for tourists and locals alike, as it offers beautiful natural landscapes and beaches where visitors can enjoy the crystal clear sea and the pure wilderness of Sardinia at its best.
If you are planning a trip to the central part of Sardinia and especially to the Sinis Peninsula, then be sure to visit the stunning Isola di Mal di Ventre. For more information on the island its best beaches, and for tips to plan your visit, please continue reading my guide.
You should also read my post A Guide To The Islands Of Sardinia for more incredible places to visit.
History And Geography Of Mal Di Ventre Island
Mal di Ventre Island measures roughly 2.5 km (about 1.5 miles) in length, and in its highest point is peaks at 20 meters (65.6 feet) above sea level. That’s where the lighthouse of Malu Entu island is located.
Measuring roughly 85 hectares, Malu Entu Island has the typical Mediterranean scrub vegetation. The alternation between arid and green spaces creates an evocative landscape where wild rabbits and land and land and turtles live.
The island is also a nesting and resting point for various species of birds which include seagulls, Eleonora’s falcons, and cormorants.
In the past, sea oxen would also live there.
Mal di Ventre Island is also one of the prime snorkeling spots in Sardinia. Here you will be able to see, among others, lots of crustaceans (primarily lobster and spiky lobster), seabream, white seabream, barracuda and groupers. Occasionally, you may even be able to spot dolphins.
Merciless winds, turbulent waters and the roughness of rocks known as Libeccio’s Teeth have filled the island’s seabed with shipwrecks. Among them, a spectacular 36-meter (118 feet) Roman ship, which was used to transport lead ingots.
Despite various navigational challenges that make the island difficult to reach by boats, the past civilizations managed to reach it. In fact, there is a ruin of a nuraghe on the island, the ruin of a well, as well as archaeological evidence of the presence of Phoenicians and Romans.
In the past the island was used for fishing. It was also a strategic military outpost. During the last century, the Isola di Mal di Ventre was also used by shepherds. Today it is completely uninhabited, apart from tourists and locals who visit during the summer.
Malu Entu Island Beaches
The wild and unspoiled beaches are one of the main attractions of the island. Below you will find the ones that in my opinion are really worth seeing.
Cala Maestra and Cala Ponente
Among the best beaches of the island, Cala Maestra is located in the northern part. The gravel and the rocks bathe in the crystal water, while the seabed is full of marine life, ideal for snorkeling enthusiasts.
Similar to Cala Maestra, Cala Ponente beach is even wilder, with granite rocks resting on the shore, washed by a fantastic turquoise-blue sea.
Punta Libeccio
Unlike Cala Maestra and Cala Ponente, the beach at Libeccio Point – the most popular on the island – is more suitable for families, as it has light-colored sand and shallow waters.
However, the presence of rocks proves suitable for those who want to do some snorkeling. From this beach you can admire the islet Coscia di Donna (woman’s thigh), where sailors and fishermen could spot monk seals until the late 18th century.
Cala delle Tamerici and Cala dei Pastori
In the northern part of the island, you will find Cala delle Tamerici and Cala dei Pastori, two wider beaches characterized by quartz granules and washed by an azure sea with shallow waters.
Cala dei Pastori owes its name precisely to the shepherds who, until the last century, brought their flocks to graze on the island. You can also find the remains of the shepherds houses, right there on the beach.
Cala del Nuraghe
The beach takes its name from a nuraghe. It is a must-see for history buffs. The nuraghe ruins consist of a keep, a secondary tower and the defensive walls. You will find the building i a few meters from the shore. It is the evidence of how ancient people were attracted to the island, especially for the presence of fish.
What To Bring To Malu Entu Island
The island of Malu Entu is an unspoiled place, so you will not find restaurants, public toilets or other services. Therefore, I strongly suggest that you bring with you food and water for the day, as well as what you need to be able enjoy your day at the beach – including lots of sunblock!.
You will not find any services on the beaches on the island. Furthermore, the flat territory does not offer much protection from the sun. Remember to bring a beach umbrella for shade.
How To Get To Isola Di Mal Di Ventre
You can get to Malu Entu from various tourist harbors in the Gulf of Oristano. It’s about 5 miles from Capu Mannu and belongs to the Marine Protected Area of the Sinis Peninsula, in the Cabras Municipality.
The only way to get to the island is by boat, typically departing from Mari Ermi beach and occasionally Putzu Idu. You can book a guided zodiac tour or a taxi boat. The price is around €25 for adults, €15 for children up to 8 years old, while it’s free for children up to 2 years old.
Alternatively, you can rent a small zodiac (anything under 40 horsepower does not require a license) and go by yourself.
Keep in mind that you still need to have at least some sailing experience in case you decide to rent a zodiac. The island winds could be quite unforgiving. Just make sure not to underestimate the wind!
You will also have to follow some important environmental rules. You can’t drop your anchor anywhere where there’s posidonia seaweed as this is protected. Some parts of the island are completely off limits.
The cost of renting a small zodiac for the entire day is in the range of €200 in total, plus gas.
Several places in Mari Ermi offer both taxi boat, zodiac rental and guided tours only during the summer months. Book in advance, but you allow a bit of flexibility as the area can be very windy and it’s not advisable to go to Malu Entu when the wind is strong. I recommend Sea Next as one of the most reliable companies. You can get in touch via whatsapp at +39 3792664042 or 3476461745 and 3400846082.
Rules Of Behavior At Malu Entu Island
Mal di Ventre Island is located within a protected area. Therefore, you must respect several rules of behavior during your visit.
DON’T TAKE SAND – As in all other beaches in Sardinia, you can’t take away sand, pebbles, stones or shells from the beach or shoreline. For more information, read this post.
KEEP THE BEACHES CLEAN – Don’t leave trash on the beach. Keep in mind that you won’t find any trash bins on the island, so be sure to bring some bags to pick up the trash and bring it back with you, so that you can dispose of it accordingly.
RESPECT THE MARINE LIFE – Don’t pick up crabs, starfish, jellyfish or other marine life out of the water, since you could harm them. Also, be respectful of the turtles populating the island, as well as the various species of birds you may encounter. Remember that this is a highly protected marine area so there’s absolutely no fishing.
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I really hope you can make it back there, though!
I visited that wonderful islet many years ago with my famiily (wife and two children).
Visiting that small land was the accomplishment of a dream, because i I had known the island since my first childhood, being very fond of remote lands and over all small islands. I received a full joy from that contact, one of the most intense, intimate and deep feelings in my life. I would have liked to pass the night alone over there, to defy the loneliness with its soft noises of birds, lizards and rabbits, but I wasn’t allowed to. So I had to return back to Putzu Idu by boat. I promised to myself to return there, but I couldn’t and, unfortunately, now I am too old and it’s too late.