La Maddalena, Sardinia: Complete Local Guide

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Located off the northeastern coast of Sardinia, La Maddalena is one of the most beautiful parts of the island. The protected Archipelago of La Maddalena National Park is made up of more than 60 islands and islets, with granite landscapes, transparent water, small coves, hiking trails, and some of the best beaches in Sardinia.

I visit La Maddalena almost every summer, and it remains one of my favorite places on the island. I love the contrast between the lively harbor town, the wild landscapes of nearby Caprera, the scenic coastal drives, and the quieter corners that you can only properly appreciate once you spend a few days there.

Most people visit La Maddalena for the beaches and boat trips around islands such as Spargi, Budelli, Santa Maria, and Caprera. But there is much more to it than that. The archipelago also has excellent hiking, good snorkeling and diving, historical sites connected to Giuseppe Garibaldi, and old military fortifications scattered across the islands.

Whether you are planning a day trip from Palau or a longer stay, this guide will help you understand what makes La Maddalena special, how to plan your visit, where to stay, and which beaches and experiences are actually worth your time.

Clear water in the natural pools of Budelli in La Maddalena.
Clear water in the natural pools of Budelli in La Maddalena

La Maddalena At A Glance

La Maddalena is one of the best places to visit in Sardinia for beaches, boat trips, hiking, and relaxed island life. Staying at least a few nights allows you to properly experience both La Maddalena and nearby Caprera.

  • Best for: Beaches, boat trips, snorkeling, hiking, scenic drives, and relaxed seaside evenings.
  • Where is La Maddalena? Off the northeastern coast of Sardinia, accessible by ferry from Palau.
  • What is La Maddalena? A town, an island, and an archipelago made up of more than 60 islands and islets that are protected as a national park.
  • How long should you stay? Ideally, 4 days to one week. You can visit on a day trip from Palau, but staying overnight is a much better experience.
  • Do you need a car? Yes, in most cases. A car makes it much easier to explore beaches, Caprera, hiking trails, and scenic coastal roads.
  • Best time to visit: Late Spring (May) to early October for beach weather and boat trips. June and September are usually the best balance of good weather and fewer crowds.
  • Best things to do: Take a boat tour of the archipelago, visit Caprera, hike to Cala Coticcio, swim at Bassa Trinità, and explore La Maddalena town.
  • Good for families? Yes. Many beaches have shallow water and calm swimming conditions, especially around Caprera and the main island.
  • Can you visit without staying overnight? Yes, but you will only see a small part of the archipelago. La Maddalena is best enjoyed at a slower pace.
  • Best base: La Maddalena town is the most practical base for restaurants, ferries, and exploring both La Maddalena and Caprera.
Impressive blue clear water in La Maddalena, Sardinia.
Such clear water

Is La Maddalena Worth It?

Yes — La Maddalena is absolutely worth visiting if you enjoy beaches, boat trips, snorkeling, hiking, and smaller seaside towns with a more laid-back feel than many other parts of northern Sardinia.

The archipelago is one of the most beautiful coastal areas in the Mediterranean, with transparent water, granite landscapes, hidden coves, and easy access to places such as Caprera, Spargi, Budelli, and Santa Maria.

Many people visit on a day trip from Palau, but staying at least a few nights gives you time to experience the islands properly and enjoy them outside the busiest hours.

I personally think La Maddalena is a great place for anyone who enjoys a bit of a slower pace. Days here are usually spent moving between beaches, taking a boat tour, swimming, hiking in Caprera, and having dinner by the harbor in the evening.

Around Budelli Island in La Maddalena.
Around Budelli Island

Best Time To Visit La Maddalena, Italy

The best time to visit La Maddalena depends on what you want to do, but for most people, the ideal months are between June and September. The weather is usually excellent, the sea is warm enough for swimming, and boat tours run regularly. In June and September, the islands feel noticeably less crowded than they do in peak summer.

July and August are the busiest months. This is when La Maddalena is at its liveliest, with full ferry schedules, beach clubs, restaurants, and boat excursions all operating at full capacity. The downside is that beaches, parking areas, and ferries can become very crowded, especially in August, when many Italians are on holiday.

If your main priority is swimming and spending long days at the beach, late June to mid-September is generally the best period. Sea temperatures are warmest in August and early September.

May and early October can also be excellent, particularly if you enjoy hiking, scenic drives, photography, or a quieter atmosphere. You may not get perfect beach weather every day, but the landscapes are beautiful, temperatures are pleasant, and the islands feel much more relaxed.

One thing many visitors underestimate is the wind. Like the rest of Sardinia, La Maddalena can be windy at any time of year, especially when the Mistral blows. This can affect boat tours and sea conditions, particularly around the more exposed beaches and smaller islands of the archipelago.

Personally, I try to avoid August whenever possible. My favorite time to visit is the beginning of July, when the weather is fantastic, the days are long, so I can spend more time at the beach, and the overall experience feels calmer and more enjoyable compared to August.

Cala Corsara in Spargi, La Maddalena Archipelago.
Cala Corsara in Spargi

How Long To Stay In La Maddalena, Sardinia

With some of the best beaches in northern Sardinia, excellent hiking trails through Mediterranean macchia, and the possibility of exploring different islands by boat, La Maddalena is one of those places where it is genuinely worth slowing down and staying a while.

If you can, spend a week there – that’s how long I stayed last time I visited, and I honestly wish I could have stayed longer. One week gives you enough time to enjoy several beaches without rushing, take a full-day boat tour of the archipelago, explore Caprera properly, and still leave room for slower days by the sea.

If a week is not possible, I think 4 days is the sweet spot for a first trip. That is usually enough time to drive around La Maddalena and Caprera, spend time at a few beaches, enjoy a boat excursion, and experience the town in the evenings without constantly moving around.

Three nights is the absolute minimum I would personally recommend if you want the trip to feel relaxing rather than rushed.

Many people visit La Maddalena as a day trip from Palau or the Emerald Coast, and while that is certainly possible, you only end up seeing a very small part of what makes the archipelago special. A single day is usually enough for a quick drive around the islands or one boat excursion, but not for both.

Likewise, if you only have one rushed day in northern Sardinia, trying to squeeze in La Maddalena may feel stressful rather than enjoyable.

In my experience, La Maddalena is at its best when you give it time — ideally at least three or four days, and even longer if you enjoy beaches, hiking, snorkeling, and being on the water.

Cala Soraya in Spargi, Maddalena Archipelago Sardinia.
Cala Soraya in Spargi

How To Get To La Maddalena

The only way to reach La Maddalena is by ferry from the port of Palau, in northeastern Sardinia. The crossing is short and easy, and ferries run throughout the day all year round.

Palau is located around 50 minutes by car from Olbia and roughly 3.5 hours from Cagliari.

Getting to Palau

The easiest way to reach Palau is by car. If you are flying to Sardinia, the closest airport is Olbia Costa Smeralda Airport, which has excellent seasonal connections to many European cities, and direct flights to New York JFK between May and October.

I strongly recommend renting a car for visiting La Maddalena and the surrounding area. Having your own vehicle makes it much easier to explore beaches, scenic roads, Caprera, and smaller coves at your own pace.

I usually use Discover Cars to compare rental prices in Sardinia.

You can also reach Palau by bus from Olbia, Golfo Aranci, and Santa Teresa Gallura. During the summer months, there are direct buses from Olbia Airport to Palau port.

Cala Napoletana Beach in Caprera.
Cala Napoletana Beach in Caprera

Taking the ferry to La Maddalena

Two companies operate ferries between Palau and La Maddalena:

  • Delcomar
  • Maddalena Lines

Prices are usually very similar, so I normally just pick whichever departure time is most convenient.

The crossing takes around 20 minutes, depending on sea conditions.

Ferries run frequently during the day and continue through the night, so unless you are traveling during a particularly busy summer weekend, there is usually no need to book far in advance.

If you are traveling with a car, I recommend arriving at least 20 to 30 minutes before departure.

You can buy tickets directly at the port or book online in advance via Direct Ferries, which is the platform I personally use most often for ferry bookings in Europe.

Goat and view of Cala Coticcio from Mount Teialone.
Goat and view of Cala Coticcio from Mount Teialone

How to get around La Maddalena

You can visit La Maddalena without a car — but I honestly recommend having one.

There is a local bus network connecting La Maddalena town with some beaches on both La Maddalena and Caprera, and if you are staying in town and planning mostly boat tours, you can manage without driving.

However, having your own car (or scooter) gives you much more flexibility and allows you to reach beaches, hiking trailheads, sunset spots, and Caprera more easily and at your own pace.

If you are already renting a car elsewhere in Sardinia, my advice is simple: bring it on the ferry. Cars can travel on the Palau–La Maddalena ferry and the crossing only takes around 20 minutes. Unless you specifically want a scooter for convenience (scooter rentals are available in La Maddalena Town), it’s usually better to rent a car in mainland Sardinia.

Keep in mind that some beaches and hiking trails — especially in Caprera — require walking regardless of whether you have a car.

Visiting the National Park by private boat

If you are visiting the archipelago with your own boat, keep in mind that parts of the national park require permits and daily access fees. Alternatively, joining a guided boat tour is often the easiest option for first-time visitors.

Panoramic view of Cala Brigantina in Caprera.
Panoramic view of Cala Brigantina in Caprera

Best Boat Tours of La Maddalena Archipelago

Taking a boat tour is one of the best ways to experience La Maddalena Archipelago, especially if you are short on time or do not want to worry about ferries, parking, or navigating between islands yourself.

The Archipelago of La Maddalena National Park is made up of more than 60 islands and islets, though the best known are La Maddalena, Caprera, Spargi, Budelli, Santa Maria, Santo Stefano, and Razzoli. The only inhabited islands are La Maddalena, Caprera and Santa Maria.

All smaller islands are uninhabited and environmentally protected, and many can only be properly explored from the water.

Pink Beach in Budelli Island, La Maddalena Sadinia.
Pink Beach in Budelli Island

Most tours visit some combination of Spargi, Budelli, and Santa Maria (you need a specific tour for Caprera), with swimming stops in some of the clearest water you will find in Sardinia. Depending on the tour, you may swim directly from the boat, snorkel in secluded coves, stop at beaches, and enjoy lunch on board.

One of the highlights of the archipelago is Budelli and its famous Spiaggia Rosa (Pink Beach), whose pink color comes from coral fragments and microorganisms accumulated over thousands of years. The beach itself has been protected and closed to visitors since the 1990s, but boat tours allow you to admire it from a distance.

RIB tour of La Maddalena, Sardinia.
RIB tour of La Maddalena

Spargi is another favorite stop thanks to its wild granite coastline, white sand coves, and transparent water. Santa Maria is known for its shallow turquoise sea and relaxed atmosphere, while Razzoli, the closest island to Corsica, is one of the archipelago’s wildest and best snorkeling spots.

These are some of the best guided tours of La Maddalena Archipelago:

Small Group Wooden Boat Tour – This is honestly my favorite boat tour in La Maddalena Archipelago, and the one I usually recommend to friends looking for a more relaxed and personal experience. Captain Enzo knows the islands incredibly well and adjusts the itinerary according to the sea conditions. The atmosphere on board is calm and intimate, with plenty of swimming stops, snorkeling opportunities, and a genuinely excellent lunch made with fresh local products.

Full Day Boat Tour From Palau – Departing from Palau, this is a classic full-day excursion around the archipelago and a good choice if you are staying on mainland Sardinia. It typically includes several swimming stops and visits to some of the best-known islands and beaches.

Full Day Boat Trip Around La Maddalena Archipelago – This is a well-reviewed option with departures from either Palau or La Maddalena, making it convenient whether you are staying on the mainland or on the island itself.

Catamaran Tour of La Maddalena Archipelago – If you prefer smaller groups and a quieter atmosphere, a catamaran tour is one of the best experiences you can have in La Maddalena. These tours usually move at a slower pace and spend more time swimming and relaxing in secluded coves.

Small Group Boat Tour From Cannigione – Departing from Cannigione, this is a good alternative if you are staying in the Gallura area. The smaller group size makes the experience feel more relaxed, and lunch is included.

Half Day Boat Tour From Palau – This is a good option if you do not want to spend an entire day on the water. While you typically do not disembark at beaches such as Cala Coticcio or Cala Brigantina, you can swim directly from the boat and still enjoy some of the most beautiful scenery in the archipelago, including the famous natural pools near Budelli.

My post, Best Boat Tours of La Maddalena Archipelago, helps you compare the various options and pick the best one for your travel style and needs.

Razzoli Island in the Maddalena Archipelago.
Razzoli Island in the Maddalena Archipelago

What to See and Do in La Maddalena

Beyond the beaches and boat trips, La Maddalena also offers excellent hiking, scenic coastal drives, snorkeling and diving, fascinating historical sites, and some of the best sunset spots in northern Sardinia.

Whether you prefer spending your days on the water, exploring Caprera’s rugged landscapes, or simply enjoying a slow evening by the harbor with a glass of wine, there is more than enough here to fill several days.

Go snorkeling or diving

Thanks to its protected marine environment and incredibly clear water, La Maddalena Archipelago is one of the best places in Sardinia for snorkeling and diving.

Even simple snorkeling sessions close to the shore can be rewarding, especially around Caprera, Spargi, and the smaller coves that can only be reached by boat. Expect granite seabeds, schools of fish, sea grass meadows, and excellent visibility, particularly on calm days when the wind is not blowing.

If you enjoy diving, there are several diving centers in La Maddalena and Palau offering excursions for all levels, from beginner dives to more advanced sites around the archipelago. Some dives explore underwater granite formations and marine life, while others visit shipwrecks and historical military remains submerged around the islands.

Small-group boat tours also include snorkeling stops and provide equipment on board, so this is one of the easiest ways to experience the archipelago from the water.

Old historic center of La Maddalena Town.
Old historic center of La Maddalena Town

Explore the town of La Maddalena

La Maddalena town is the main settlement in the archipelago and the best base for restaurants, shops, ferries to mainland Sardinia, boat tours of the archipelago, and evenings out after a day at the beach or on the water.

Centered around Piazza Umberto I and the old harbor, the town is pleasant to explore on foot, with narrow streets, small boutiques, lively cafés, gelato shops, and seafood restaurants spread across the historic center.

Keep in mind that this is a real town rather than a purpose-built holiday destination, which is part of its charm: there is a permanent population of about 7,000 people that lives here year-round, including in the winter months.

I particularly enjoy walking around the harbor area in the late afternoon and evening, when locals and visitors gather for aperitivo and dinner after spending the day exploring the islands.

La Maddalena town is also the most practical place in the archipelago to stock up on essentials, organize boat excursions, rent scooters, or simply take a break from beaches and hiking.

Panoramic views from Carlotto Cape in La Maddalena.
Panoramic views from Carlotto Cape in La Maddalena

Drive the scenic coastal roads

La Maddalena is one of the best places in Sardinia for a scenic coastal drive. The panoramic road looping around the island is around 20 kilometers long and offers constant views of granite landscapes, turquoise water, small coves, and the surrounding islands of the archipelago.

Driving is easily the best way to explore the island, especially if you want to combine beaches, viewpoints, short hikes, and quieter corners that are harder to reach by public transport.

One of my favorite stops along the drive is Carlotto Cape, a rocky promontory on the western coast of La Maddalena, around 20 minutes from the main town. Despite being easy to reach, it usually feels quieter than many beaches and viewpoints elsewhere on the island.

This is a great place to enjoy the typical landscapes of the archipelago, with granite rock formations, Mediterranean macchia, and beautiful sea views. You will also find the small Cappella della Madonnetta overlooking the coast, particularly scenic around sunset. There is also a small bar nearby and a hidden beach where you can stop for a swim.

The scenic drive continues across the bridge connecting La Maddalena to Caprera, where you will find even more beaches, hiking trails, and panoramic roads.

I recommend renting a car on mainland Sardinia rather than directly on La Maddalena, where availability can be limited in peak season. You can easily bring your car on the ferry from Palau, and the crossing takes around 20 minutes.

I recommend Discover Cars to compare rental prices in Sardinia.

Garibaldi Museum house in Caprera.
Garibaldi Museum house in Caprera

Visit Garibaldi’s Compendium in Caprera

Connected to La Maddalena by bridge, Caprera is well worth visiting not only for its beaches and hiking trails, but also for its historical significance. The island is closely associated with Giuseppe Garibaldi, the Italian general and nationalist leader who spent the last 26 years of his life here.

One of the main attractions on the island is the Compendio Garibaldino, a historical complex that includes Garibaldi’s former home, Casa Garibaldina, now a museum dedicated to his life and legacy. Visiting the house offers an interesting glimpse into a much quieter and more personal side of Garibaldi, far from the military figure most people associate him with.

This is actually one of my earliest travel memories. The first time I visited Caprera and the Garibaldi museum was during a school trip in April 1986, when I was 10 years old, and I still remember how fascinated I was by both the island and the history connected to it.

Another interesting site is the Giuseppe Garibaldi Memorial inside the old Forte Arbuticci, which focuses more on Garibaldi’s military campaigns and the history of Italian unification. The fort itself is also worth visiting for the panoramic views over Caprera and the surrounding sea.

Even if you are not particularly interested in history, I think this part of Caprera helps give more depth and character to the archipelago beyond its beaches and boat tours.

My post, Best Museums In Sardinia, highlights other museums worth visiting during your trip to Sardinia.

Batteria Poggio Rasu Superiore in Caprera.
Batteria Poggio Rasu Superiore

See Batteria Poggio Rasu Superiore

Scattered across La Maddalena and Caprera you will find the remains of old military fortifications, a reminder of the strategic importance the archipelago once had in the Mediterranean.

One of the most interesting is Batteria Poggio Rasu Superiore, located in the southwestern part of Caprera.

Unlike Forte Arbuticci, this is not a formal museum or restored tourist attraction, which is honestly part of what makes it so fascinating. The abandoned military structures have slowly blended into the landscape, surrounded by granite rocks, Mediterranean vegetation, and sweeping sea views.

The site can be visited independently, but I think it is much more interesting with a guide who can explain both the military history and the role the archipelago played over the years.

I recommend getting in touch with Giuliano Gaio, an official guide of La Maddalena National Park, who knows the area incredibly well and speaks excellent English. You can contact him via WhatsApp at +39 347 848 8803.

You can also combine the visit with a guided hike to Cala Brigantina, one of the wildest beaches in Caprera.

Keep in mind that this is not an officially developed tourist site. Paths can be uneven and exposed, so sturdy shoes and plenty of water are essential.

Fort in Mount Teialone, La Maddalena.
Fort in Mount Teialone

Go on a sunset hike to Teialone Tower

Teialone Tower is the highest point in the entire La Maddalena Archipelago and one of the best places for panoramic views over Caprera, the surrounding islands, and the Strait of Bonifacio.

Located a short drive north of Batteria Poggio Rasu Superiore, the tower is another reminder of the archipelago’s military past. The hike starts near former military barracks and follows a series of stone steps and rocky trails wrapping around Monte Teialone all the way to the summit.

The walk itself is not particularly long, but the terrain can be uneven and exposed, so proper shoes, water, and some caution are important.

From the top, you can enjoy sweeping views across the archipelago, from the Gallura coastline all the way towards Corsica. On clear days, the scenery is genuinely spectacular, especially around sunset when the granite landscape takes on warmer tones.

One of the highlights is the view over Cala Coticcio, often considered one of the most beautiful beaches in Caprera. If you are lucky, you may also spot some of the wild goats that live in the area.

I particularly like this hike in autumn, when the landscape changes completely, and the hills are covered in flowering heather and wild mushrooms begin appearing across the island.

Hike to Cala Brigantina in Caprera.
During the hike to Cala Brigantina

Go hiking in La Maddalena and Caprera

La Maddalena and Caprera are excellent destinations if you enjoy hiking. Beyond the beaches and boat trips, the islands offer a surprising number of trails crossing granite landscapes, Mediterranean macchia, old military sites, and hidden coves.

Most official trails are well marked with signs from the National Park of La Maddalena and range from short panoramic walks to longer routes that can easily fill an entire day. Many hikes are suitable for moderately fit travelers, though some sections can be rocky, exposed, and very hot in summer.

One easy and rewarding route is Trail No. 04 in Caprera, which starts near Cala Portese and leads to old military fortifications through beautiful coastal scenery. The walk takes around 1 hour and 15 minutes and can easily be combined with time at the beach.

Another beautiful coastal hike runs from Cala Garibaldi to Cala Napoletana, passing several small coves and beaches along the way. It is not particularly difficult, but it is one of the nicest walks in Caprera if you want to combine hiking and swimming on the same day. The scenery changes constantly, with granite rocks, pine trees and transparent water.

Caprera is also home to two of the archipelago’s most famous hikes: the trails to Cala Coticcio (often nicknamed “Tahiti” because of its turquoise water) and Cala Brigantina. Both are protected beaches that can only be visited on guided hikes that must be booked through the websites of the Maddalena Archipelago National Park.

You can also book this guided hike to Cala Coticcio that departs 3 times per day.

Last stretch during the hike to Cala Napoletana.
Last stretch during the hike to Cala Napoletana

If you want something a bit more adventurous, one of my favorite hikes is the one to Fortificazione Candeo, starting from the Arbuticci parking area in Caprera. The trail is not particularly difficult, but like for all other hikes in Sardinia, proper hiking shoes are essential, and you should always bring plenty of water because there is very little shade along the route.

The fort itself is fascinating. Like many military structures scattered across the archipelago, it has slowly blended into the surrounding landscape. Some hikers and campers still use parts of the old fort as shelter, and it is not unusual to find small supplies or food left behind for whoever arrives next.

Below the fort, there is also a small cove where you can swim, though the shoreline is rocky and sea shoes are highly recommended.

For experienced hikers, you can combine multiple trails into longer treks, including routes along the western coast of La Maddalena itself.

Personally, I think spring and autumn are the best seasons for hiking in La Maddalena. Temperatures are much more comfortable than in midsummer, the light is beautiful, and the islands are often covered in wildflowers, flowering heather, and Mediterranean vegetation.

My post, The Best Hikes In Sardinia, shares more hiking trails and tips for hiking in Sardinia.

Sunset in Punta Tegge, La Maddalena.
Sunset in Punta Tegge

Have a sunset drink in Punta Tegge

Punta Tegge is one of my favorite sunset spots in La Maddalena, especially after a long beach day. Located a short drive from the town center, this rocky stretch of coastline faces west and offers beautiful views towards Spargi and mainland Sardinia, and the surrounding sea.

The atmosphere here is very relaxed. There is a local bar where you can grab a drink and some snacks before settling on the rocks to watch the sunset. They also make excellent cocktails using local gin, which feels particularly appropriate in this part of Sardinia.

One of the nicest things about Punta Tegge is that you can simply sit on the smooth granite rocks with a pillow, watch the light change over the water, and enjoy the slower pace of the evening.

You can also swim here, though this is definitely not a sandy beach. The shoreline is rocky, sea urchins are common, and getting in and out of the water can be tricky, so I highly recommend wearing rock shoes.

Capriccioli Beach - photo by Erika Cristina Manno @shutterstock
Capriccioli Beach – photo by Erika Cristina Manno @shutterstock

Take a day trip to nearby destinations

Even though there is plenty to see in La Maddalena Archipelago itself, the location also makes it easy to explore other beautiful parts of northeastern Sardinia — and even southern Corsica.

These are some of the best day trips from La Maddalena:

Porto Cervo and the Emerald Coast

One of the easiest day trips from La Maddalena is the Emerald Coast, famous for luxury hotels, marinas, beach clubs, and beautiful beaches.

Porto Cervo itself is worth visiting for a walk around the harbor and town center, where you will find boutiques, cafés, restaurants, and some of the island’s most recognizable luxury scenery. Nearby beaches such as Capriccioli and Liscia di Vacca are also worth a stop.

Beyond the glamorous side of the coast, the area has much more to offer. Arzachena, recently recognized as one of Sardinia’s Blue Zone towns, is a good stop if you are interested in archaeology (don’t miss the Nuraghe La Prisgiona and the Giants’ Tombs), local culture, and a slower pace of life.

San Pantaleo is a lovely village in the Emerald Coast.
San Pantaleo

Nearby San Pantaleo, with its granite mountains and small artisan shops, is one of the prettiest villages in northern Sardinia and particularly lively on market days.

This part of Gallura is also one of Sardinia’s main wine-producing areas, especially known for Vermentino di Gallura. If you enjoy wine tasting, there are several excellent wineries within easy driving distance of Porto Cervo and Arzachena – my favorite is Surrau.

The easiest way to visit independently is by ferry to Palau and then by car. I don’t recommend trying to get there by public bus, as that is very limiting to what you can see and do in the area.

My Guide To The Emerald Coast shares more insights into this glamorous part of the island.

Cala Spinosa Santa Teresa di Gallura Northern Sardinia.
Cala Spinosa Beach in Capo Testa

Santa Teresa di Gallura and Capo Testa

Santa Teresa Gallura is one of the prettiest towns in northern Sardinia and an easy day trip from La Maddalena. Built around a lively central square, it has a relaxed atmosphere, good restaurants, small shops, and the beautiful Spiaggia Rena Bianca right by town.

Just west of Santa Teresa you will find Capo Testa, a spectacular granite headland connected to the mainland by a narrow strip of land. The landscapes here feel completely different from La Maddalena, with massive rock formations shaped by the wind and sea over centuries.

Capo Testa is particularly beautiful around sunset and also has several short walking trails with incredible coastal views.

If you happen to visit in late summer, Santa Teresa also hosts parts of the Musica sulle Bocche festival, one of Sardinia’s best-known jazz and contemporary music festivals, with concerts often taking place in spectacular outdoor settings around town and along the coast.

If you have a car, the trip from La Maddalena usually takes around one hour, including the ferry crossing to Palau. I don’t recommend going if you don’t have a car.

My posts, A Complete Guide To Santa Teresa Di Gallura and A Useful Guide To The Gallura Region, share more insights into this unique part of Sardinia.

On Ile Piana in Corsica.
Enjoying Ile Piana in Corsica

Southern Corsica

Corsica is so close to La Maddalena that on clear days you can easily see it across the Strait of Bonifacio.

While you cannot properly visit Corsica in just one day, there are boat excursions from La Maddalena Archipelago that explore the southern coastline of the island and some of the smaller surrounding islands.

Boat tours usually visit places such as Lavezzi Island and Île Piana, where you can enjoy the transparent water and excellent snorkeling. Depending on sea conditions and the itinerary, some excursions also stop in Bonifacio, Corsica’s spectacular clifftop town.

I actually did a full-day zodiac tour to Corsica with friends, and we all really enjoyed it. It is a fun and easy introduction to the island if you are curious to see a different side of the Mediterranean without committing to a longer trip.

You may want to consider this zodiac tour to Corsica here. I took this tour with my friends, and we all agreed it was a fun, short tour and a great introduction to Corsica.

Cala Coticcio, one of the best beaches in La Maddalena.
Cala Coticcio

Best Beaches In La Maddalena

One of the main reasons to visit La Maddalena is its beaches. Between the main island, Caprera, and the smaller islands of the archipelago, you will find everything from long sandy beaches to small coves surrounded by granite rocks and transparent water.

The archipelago is a protected national park, which is one of the reasons these beaches remain so beautiful and relatively unspoiled. Below are some of my personal favorites, but there are many more to discover depending on the season, wind conditions, and how much exploring you are willing to do.

Please help keep the islands this way. Do not take sand, shells, stones, or any natural elements from the beaches — removing sand is illegal in Sardinia and may result in fines. Likewise, never pick up starfish: they are extremely delicate animals and even brief exposure out of the water can seriously harm or kill them.

And if you come across jellyfish, resist the temptation to touch or remove them from the sea — they are an important part of the marine ecosystem and are best left alone.

Bassa Trinità beach in La Maddalena.
Bassa Trinità Beach

Bassa Trinità Beach

This is one of the most accessible and most family-friendly beaches to visit on La Maddalena. Located on the main island, this sheltered beach is known for its shallow water, which stays relatively low for quite a distance from shore and makes it particularly popular with families and less confident swimmers.

The beach itself is a beautiful stretch of fine white sand framed by smooth granite rocks and transparent water in every shade of blue. If you enjoy exploring, the rocks around the edges of the beach are fun to walk around and offer a slightly quieter escape from the main sandy area.

This was actually the first beach my friends and I visited the first time we arrived in La Maddalena for a long summer weekend. We landed in the afternoon and wanted somewhere easy to reach by car without having to hike or plan too much, and Bassa Trinità turned out to be the perfect choice — sheltered, beautiful, and ideal for easing into island mode.

Access to the beach is via a scenic wooden staircase that opens onto the bay, making the arrival part of the experience.

If you can, stay until later in the day: this is one of the nicest beaches on La Maddalena for sunset.

There are a few bars and places to eat nearby, but bring everything else you may need for a comfortable beach day, especially shade during the hottest hours. Parking is available nearby, though spaces can fill up quickly in summer.

Cala Francese - photo by Elisa Locci @Alamy
Cala Francese – photo by Elisa Locci @Alamy

Cala Francese

This is one of the most distinctive beaches on La Maddalena and one of my favorites whenever I am looking for something that feels a little different from the classic long stretches of sand.

Located in the southern part of the island, the beach is surrounded by Mediterranean vegetation and smooth white granite that contrasts beautifully with the clear water.

Rather than one large beach, Cala Francese is made up of smaller sandy areas separated by rocks, creating lots of quieter corners to settle into. It is also a great spot for snorkeling, thanks to the clear water and rocky seabed.

There is a small café near the access point where you can stop for a drink or snack before or after your beach time.

One thing that makes Cala Francese particularly interesting is its history. Right above the beach, you can still see the remains of the old granite quarry that operated here from the mid-1800s under French ownership. Granite extracted here was used in major construction projects around the world and has contributed to works including the pedestal of the Statue of Liberty.

Cala Francese is easy to reach by car from La Maddalena town, and there is parking nearby, though spaces can fill up in summer.

Punta Tegge in La Maddalena.
Punta Tegge is a lovely swimming spot

Spiaggia di Tegge

Located close to La Maddalena town, Spiaggia di Tegge is one of the easiest beaches to visit on the island and one of my favorite spots for a late afternoon swim and sunset.

This is not a classic sandy beach. Instead, smooth granite rocks form natural terraces overlooking the sea, making it a great place to lay your towel, sunbathe, and jump straight into the water.

It is also one of the best beaches to visit on windy days. Since there is very little sand, you do not end up spending the entire afternoon eating it or finding it in absolutely everything you bring to the beach.

The beach sits on a small rocky peninsula that was once home to a 19th-century military fortification, parts of which can still be seen today and add a bit of character to the landscape.

Spiaggia di Tegge is also a great place for snorkeling and diving, and there is a diving center nearby.

If you can, stay until sunset. This part of La Maddalena faces west, and the evening light over the sea is particularly beautiful. There’s a bar where you can stop for a drink or an aperitivo after your swim.

Spiaggia di Monte di Rena - photo by Fabio Presutti @Alamy
Spiaggia di Monti d’A Rena – photo by Fabio Presutti @Alamy

Spiaggia di Monti d’A Rena

Monti d’A Rena is one of the nicest sandy beaches on La Maddalena and one I often recommend to families or anyone looking for an easy beach day.

Located in the northern part of the island, this wide beach takes its name from the Gallurese expression for “mountains of sand,” a reference to the dune system behind it. Compared to many of the smaller coves around La Maddalena, it feels more open and spacious.

The water is usually calm and shallow close to shore, making it a good option for children. The seabed is mostly sandy, but there are rocky sections around the edges of the bay where snorkeling can be rewarding, and it is easy to spot small fish.

Even in the summer, the beach often feels less crowded than you might expect because there is plenty of space to spread out.

There is a small beach café at the beach for drinks, snacks, or a light lunch.

Monti d’A Rena is easy to reach by car, and there is parking close to the beach, which makes it particularly convenient if you are carrying beach gear or traveling with children.

Cala Spalmatore in La Maddalena Archipelago.
Cala Spalmatore

Spalmatore Beach

Spalmatore is one of the most popular beaches on La Maddalena and for a good reason. Located on the northeastern coast of the island, it is actually made up of three small beaches forming one large sheltered bay.

Protected by granite formations on three sides, this is one of the beaches I usually consider when the Mistral is blowing, since the bay tends to remain calmer than more exposed parts of the island.

This was actually the first beach my friends and I went to the last time we visited La Maddalena.

We arrived in the afternoon and wanted somewhere easy to reach from town without having to think too much about logistics, and Spalmatore turned out to be the perfect first stop — sheltered, easy to access, and immediately giving us that “we’ve arrived in La Maddalena” feeling.

The water here is usually calm and transparent, making it a good choice for swimming and for families with children. The rocky edges of the bay are also excellent for snorkeling, and if conditions allow, jumping into the water from the small jetty is always fun.

Spalmatore has more facilities than many beaches in La Maddalena. You will find a beach bar for drinks and snacks, and a beach club that rents sunbeds and parasols. r

The beach is easy to reach from La Maddalena town, and parking is available along the street nearby. For this reason, it is one of the most convenient beach choices on the island.

Cala Granara in Spargi.
Cala Granara, in Spargi Island

Spiaggia del Cardellino

Spiaggia del Cardellino is one of La Maddalena’s quieter beaches and a good choice if you prefer somewhere smaller and less developed.

Located in the northeastern part of the island near Capo Ferrari, this small beach combines soft sand with smooth granite formations that almost divide the bay into little natural corners. The water is usually calm and shallow close to shore, so it is a nice option for families with children or anyone looking for a relaxing swim.

Compared to some of the better-known beaches on La Maddalena, Cardellino tends to have a more secluded feel. It is the kind of place where you can easily spend a few slow hours swimming, reading, or simply enjoying the scenery without much else going on.

One thing to keep in mind is that this is a very natural beach. There are no services and very little shade, so bring everything you may need for the day, especially water, snacks, and good sun protection.

You can get to Spiaggia del Cardellino by car: parking is located very close to the beach, so access is surprisingly straightforward despite the quieter setting.

Cala Lunga beach in La Maddalena.
Cala Lunga

Cala Lunga

Cala Lunga — also known as Porto Lungo — is one of the most sheltered beaches on La Maddalena and a good option when other beaches are exposed to the wind.

Set inside a narrow inlet on the eastern side of the island, this small bay combines fine pale sand with calm, shallow water and a sandy seabed. It’s a great spot for families, and the perfect place to go for a swim.

Because of its protected position, the sea here is often calmer than elsewhere on the island, and the rocky edges of the cove can also make for enjoyable snorkeling.

Even though Cala Lunga is easy to reach, it usually feels quieter than some of La Maddalena’s more famous beaches, especially outside peak summer hours.

There is a small kiosk on the beach where you can stop for drinks and basic refreshments, but I still recommend bringing everything else you may need for a comfortable beach day — especially shade and water.

Parking is available nearby, though spaces are limited and tend to fill quickly in summer.

Capocchia d'u Purpu, lovely beach in the north of La Maddalena.
Capocchia d’u Purpu, a lovely beach in the north of La Maddalena

Capocchia d’u Purpu (Testa di Polpo) Beach

The name of this beach translates from Gallurese as “Octopus Head,” and once you get there, it becomes immediately obvious why — one of the granite formations near the beach really does resemble the head of a giant octopus.

Located on Giardinelli Island, connected to La Maddalena by bridge, Capocchia d’u Purpu is a small sheltered bay with pale sand, shallow water, and calm sea conditions that can make it feel almost lagoon-like on the right day.

This was actually one of the beaches my friends and I chose during a day of very strong Mistral. Because it is easy to reach and naturally protected from the wind, it tends to become one of the most popular fallback options when conditions elsewhere are rough — so expect it to get noticeably busier on windy days.

The scenery here feels surprisingly wild considering how accessible the beach is, and I particularly like the contrast between the granite landscape and the transparent water.

One practical thing to know: because parts of the beach and the surrounding shoreline are rocky, placing umbrellas properly can be more difficult than expected. And when the Mistral is blowing, poorly secured umbrellas can become genuinely dangerous, so make sure yours is firmly anchored — or skip it entirely and come prepared with other sun protection.

There are no facilities here, so bring water, food, and anything else you may need for the day.

Capocchia d’u Purpu is easiest reached by car. The final stretch of access is partly unpaved, but parking is available nearby, and the walk to the beach is short.

Cala Garibaldi in Caprera.
Cala Garibaldi in Caprera

Garibaldi Beach

Located on the northwestern coast of Caprera, Spiaggia di Cala Garibaldi is one of the easiest beaches to reach on the island and a great choice if you want to combine beach time with a bit of exploration.

The beach takes its name from Giuseppe Garibaldi, who lived in Caprera and used this bay to land by boat. Today, the setting still feels slightly nostalgic, with old military and service buildings nearby adding a bit of atmosphere rather than taking away from the scenery.

The beach itself is small and sheltered, with pale sand and shallow water extending quite far from shore. It is a particularly good option for families and for relaxed swimming.

One thing I especially like about Cala Garibaldi is that there are trees along the back of the beach, which provide natural shade — something that is surprisingly rare on many beaches around La Maddalena and Caprera.

It is also a great starting point for exploring more of the coastline on foot.

From here, a beautiful coastal trail connects several beaches, including Cala Serena, Cala Caprarese, and Cala Napoletana. If you combine beach stops and walking, this makes for one of the nicest day hikes in Caprera. Expect to walk for roughly 8–10 km (5–6 miles) round trip, depending on how far you continue and how many detours you take.

Expert tip: You will need hiking boots for this – and any other – hike in Caprera.

There are no services directly on the beach, so bring water, snacks, and anything else you may need for the day.

Cala Garibaldi is easy to reach by car and has a convenient parking area nearby.

Cala Serena - photo by Luigi Mura @Alamy
Cala Serena – photo by Luigi Mura @Alamy

Cala Serena

This is one of those beaches that people tend to return to again and again. Small, sheltered, and surrounded by Mediterranean macchia and granite rocks, it feels surprisingly peaceful despite being fairly well known.

The beach itself is only around 40 meters long, but the combination of soft pale sand, calm water, and the protected setting makes it a wonderful place to spend a few slow hours swimming and relaxing.

This is also one of my favorite beaches to combine with a hike rather than visit on its own. If you start from Cala Garibaldi, you can reach Cala Serena on foot via an easy coastal walk that continues further north towards Cala Caprarese and Cala Napoletana. It makes for a beautiful beach-hopping day without ever having to move your car.

There are no facilities on the beach, and very little natural shade, so come prepared with plenty of water, food, and good sun protection.

The short walk to reach Cala Serena is part of the experience. You will need proper footwear, especially if you plan to continue along the coastal trails.

Cala Caprarese, a more secluded cove in Caprera.
Cala Caprarese, a more secluded cove in Caprera

Cala Caprarese

This is one of the quieter beaches in Caprera and a good choice if you are looking for somewhere that feels more remote than the island’s better-known spots.

Located on the northwestern coast of Caprera, the beach sits inside a narrow inlet that naturally protects it from wind and stronger currents. The setting feels wild and untouched, with granite formations surrounding a small stretch of pale sand and clear water.

This is not the kind of beach you casually stop at for an hour — reaching it takes a bit more effort, which is also exactly why it stays so peaceful.

The last time my friends and I visited, we hiked there from Cala Napoletana along the coastal trail. Since Cala Caprarese is one of the more difficult beaches to reach on this route, there are often very few people around. On our visit, we literally had the entire beach to ourselves, which felt almost surreal considering how busy other beaches in the archipelago can get.

To reach Cala Caprarese, follow the marked trail from the Punta Crucitta area and descend to the beach along a rocky path. The walk is not especially long, but proper footwear is essential, and I would not attempt it in flip-flops.

Local tip: One of the nicest ways to experience Cala Caprarese is as part of a longer coastal hike linking Cala Garibaldi, Cala Serena, Cala Napoletana, and the surrounding coves.

There are no services at Cala Caprarese, so bring everything you may need for the day, especially water, food, and sun protection.

Cala Napoletana, a small cove in Caprera.
Posing for a photo in Cala Napoletana

Cala Napoletana

Cala Napoletana is one of the most beautiful beaches in Caprera and a great choice if you enjoy combining beach time with a short hike.

Set inside a scallop-shaped bay and protected by granite formations on three sides, the beach is naturally sheltered and usually has calm, transparent water that is wonderful for swimming and snorkeling.

Reaching Cala Napoletana requires a bit more effort than some of the easier beaches in Caprera, but the walk is part of the experience. The trail is well-marked and noticeably easier than the hike to Cala Coticcio. For this reason, it is achievable for most people, including families with children who are used to walking.

One thing that surprises many visitors is that, despite being reached on foot, the beach can still get busy in summer because many boats stop here during the day. If you want to enjoy it at its quietest, try to arrive earlier in the morning or later in the afternoon.

I particularly like Cala Napoletana as part of a longer coastal walk. You can continue from here towards Cala Caprarese and Cala Serena, turning the day into a proper beach-hopping hike across Caprera.

The trail starts in the Arbuticci area and crosses Mediterranean vegetation and rocky terrain before descending to the beach, so proper shoes are strongly recommended.

There are no facilities at Cala Napoletana, so bring everything you may need for the day — especially water, food, and shade.

My post, A Guide To Cala Napoletana, Sardinia, shares more detailed information on how to reach this beach.

Cala Coticcio can be reached via an easy hike.
Gorgeous Cala Coticcio

Cala Coticcio

Often nicknamed “Little Tahiti,” Cala Coticcio is probably the most famous beach in Caprera and one of the most spectacular in the entire La Maddalena Archipelago.

Located on the eastern side of Caprera, this small cove is enclosed by granite cliffs and smooth rock formations that create a setting that feels more like a natural pool than an open stretch of sea. The water here is exceptionally clear and calm, and the rocky edges make it one of the best places in the archipelago for snorkeling.

I have visited Cala Coticcio several times over the years, both by hiking in and by boat. While seeing it from the water is beautiful, I personally prefer reaching it on foot. Boats are not allowed to land directly on the beach and must remain offshore, so arriving by hike gives you much more time to properly enjoy the beach and experience the landscape around it.

Good to know: Since 2022, access to Cala Coticcio on foot has been regulated, and visitors are required to join an authorized guide and pay the national park access fee.

I did the hike with Eleonora Amoroso and thought she was excellent — knowledgeable, professional, and genuinely enjoyable to spend the day with.

If you prefer something easier to organize, there are also guided hikes that can be booked online in advance, which is often the quickest option in summer and saves having to arrange everything directly with a guide.

The trail itself is not particularly long, but do not underestimate it. Parts are rocky, exposed, and steeper than many people expect. Proper shoes are essential — this is absolutely not a flip-flops kind of beach — and I recommend bringing plenty of water (I would carry at least 2 liters per person in summer).

Because Cala Coticcio is highly protected, there are also strict rules in place once you arrive. Regular towels are not allowed – you must bring a straw mat and a microfiber towel. Likewise, umbrellas are not permitted. This is done in order to reduce the impact on the fragile environment.

One small tip from experience: if you snorkel here, spend some time along the rocky sides of the cove rather than staying in the middle — that is usually where I have seen the most marine life.

My post, How To Visit Cala Coticcio, shares more information on how to make the most of this stunning beach.

Cala Brigantina, probably the quietest beach in Caprera.
Probably the quietest beach in Caprera

Cala Brigantina

Cala Brigantina is one of the wildest beaches in Caprera and one that feels much more remote than many others in the archipelago.

Located on the eastern coast of the island, you will find this beach at the bottom of a steep valley surrounded by Mediterranean vegetation and granite formations. The hike down offers beautiful views over the coastline, but getting there is part of the experience — and part of the challenge.

The beach itself is small and protected inside a narrow inlet, with calm, transparent water and excellent snorkeling along the rocky sides. Marine life here is abundant, and if you are lucky, you may also spot some of the goats that live in the area.

Unlike some of the easier beaches in Caprera, Cala Brigantina is regulated and can only be visited as part of guided hikes run by authorized guides of La Maddalena National Park (see my earlier recommendation for the guide I personally used and recommend).

One thing I particularly like about Cala Brigantina is that, despite the protections in place, it never seems to attract the same attention as Cala Coticcio. The combination of guided access and the steeper approach means that when you get there, it is still incredibly quiet.

When I visited with my friends, other than a few tourists who had arrived without a guide and were later escorted back up, we literally had the entire beach to ourselves.

Our guide also had to speak to another group of visitors who had arrived separately and planted an umbrella on the beach — which is not permitted here. It was one of those moments that made me realize how seriously the park takes protecting these places.

Because of the environmental rules in place, umbrellas and regular towels are not allowed. Bring a straw mat instead.

The hike to Cala Brigantina is actually fairly short — around 20 minutes — but the path is uneven in places, and the final descent to the beach can feel a bit steep. Bring plenty of water, and wear proper hiking shoes. I would not attempt hiking there in flip-flops.

For a more detailed guide, head over to my post A Guide To Cala Brigantina, Sardinia.

Cala Portese, a popular beach in Caprera.
Cala Portese

Cala Portese (Spiaggia dei Due Mari)

Located in the southern part of Caprera, Cala Portese is one of my favorite beaches for windy days and one of the easiest beaches to enjoy when the Mistral is blowing.

Also known as Due Mari (“Two Seas”), the beach gets its nickname from the shape of the coastline and the way the bay seems to divide the water into two separate stretches of sea.

Although it sits in southern Caprera, the beach faces northeast and is naturally protected from the prevailing Mistral winds, which often make the sea calmer here than at more exposed beaches.

This was actually where my friends and I ended up one day when the Mistral was particularly strong. While other beaches felt too exposed, Cala Portese stayed surprisingly calm and comfortable, which made for a much more relaxing beach day.

The beach is surrounded by junipers and Mediterranean vegetation and is divided into two small coves that feel quite different from one another. One side is wilder and quieter, with no facilities and more of a natural feel. The other has a beach club and services. You can easily walk from one cove to the other and pick the atmosphere you prefer.

The water here is generally calm and shallow, making it a good option for families, but the seabed becomes more interesting further out. A mix of sand, pebbles, and rocks makes this one of those beaches where you will love swimming and snorkeling.

One thing to pay attention to are the small dunes behind the beach. They are protected, so avoid walking on them or leaving your belongings there.

There is also a beach kiosk on the serviced side, which is a good place to grab an ice cream, a snack, or — my favorite option — stay a little later in the day and stop for a drink before heading back.

Cala Portese is easy to reach by car from La Maddalena. Once you park your car, it’s just a short walk to the beach.

Spiaggia del Relitto in Caprera.
A busy summer day at Spiaggia del Relitto

Spiaggia del Relitto

Spiaggia del Relitto is one of the easiest beaches to visit in Caprera and, unsurprisingly, one of the busiest in summer.

The beach combines pale sand, shallow transparent water, and easy access thanks to the short walk from the parking area and the wooden boardwalk leading to the shore. Because of this, it is particularly popular with families with children.

My friends and I actually came here one morning before our afternoon hike to Cala Coticcio. We wanted somewhere easy and relaxing before the hike, and Spiaggia del Relitto worked perfectly. But accessibility comes with popularity — by late morning, the beach was noticeably busier than many others in Caprera.

The beach takes its name from the wreck of a sailboat that caught fire and ran aground here in 1955. Parts of the wreck can still be seen in the shallow water today and are one of the reasons this beach is particularly fun for snorkeling. Combined with the rocky sections around the bay, there is plenty to explore underwater.

Behind the beach, there is a small beach restaurant where you can stop for drinks, snacks, and surprisingly good food if you do not feel like bringing lunch. They serve simple beach classics, but also more substantial dishes — spaghetti con le vongole after a swim is not a bad idea at all.

You can also rent sunbeds and parasols here in season, though they tend to go quickly on busy summer days.

Spiaggia del Relitto is easy to reach by car and has a good parking area nearby, but in peak season I recommend arriving early.

You should also read my Guide To The Spiaggia Del Relitto for more detailed information.

Cala Andreani beach in Caprera.
Cala Andreani

Cala Andreani

Located in the southernmost part of Caprera, Cala Andreani is one of those beaches that often gets overlooked in favor of the nearby Cala Portese — and this is exactly part of its appeal.

Smaller, quieter, and with a more natural feel, Cala Andreani is surrounded by pine trees and Mediterranean vegetation that provide some welcome shade during the hottest hours of the day.

Unlike many of the sandy beaches in the archipelago, the shoreline here slopes more noticeably into the sea, and the seabed quickly becomes deeper. The water is beautifully clear, and the rocky sections make this a surprisingly nice place for snorkeling.

If you look carefully, you may spot fish and sometimes even starfish among the rocks — though, of course, they should never be touched or removed from the water.

Cala Andreani is also one of the nicest spots in Caprera to stay for sunset, when the light softens, and the coastline becomes even quieter.

Natural shade is available under the trees, but if you plan to spend the whole day here, come prepared with everything you may need (including an umbrella).

Cala Andreani is easy to reach by car. Once you park, it’s a short walk to get to the beach.

My post, A Guide To Caprera Island, Sardinia, shared more information on the beaches in Caprera and other interesting attractions.

Cala Granara Beach in Spargi.
Cala Granara, a pristine beach in Spargi

Cala Granara

Located on Spargi Island, Cala Granara is one of the most beautiful beaches in La Maddalena Archipelago and one that feels properly wild.

Protected from the wind and surrounded by Mediterranean vegetation and smooth granite formations, the beach has calm, shallow water that is excellent for swimming and snorkeling.

If you feel like exploring, a short trail on the southern side of the beach leads to nearby Cala Soraya, another beautiful cove that is worth the detour.

One thing many people do not expect here is the wild boars. No people live on the island, but Spargi has a population of boars that roam freely and regularly wander onto the beaches looking for food — and sometimes, apparently, for entertainment too.

The last time my friends and I visited, we were in the water when we suddenly noticed a group of boars approaching our setup and attempting to steal our straw mats. We ended up running out of the sea to chase them away before they helped themselves to everything else.

As funny as it sounds afterwards, it is actually a good reminder to keep all food packed away and never leave bags open. If possible, keep food off the ground and secured — people sometimes hang bags on parasols or nearby juniper branches because the boars investigate absolutely everything.

You may even see them walking directly onto the beach or taking a quick swim.

As tempting as it may be, never feed them. Feeding wildlife is harmful for the animals and creates dangerous behavior around visitors.

There are no services on Cala Granara, so bring plenty of water, food, shade, and anything else you may need for the day.

The only practical way to reach Cala Granara is by boat from La Maddalena or as part of a boat excursion around the archipelago.

Boats docked in Spargi, La Maddalena Archipelago.
Boats docked in Cala Conneri in Spargi, La Maddalena Archipelago

Cala Conneri

Another beautiful beach on Spargi, Cala Conneri is a small sheltered cove with very fine pale sand and calm, transparent water.

Because the seabed stays shallow close to shore, it is one of the better beaches in the archipelago for families with children and for anyone who simply wants to spend long hours in the water.

Compared to some of Spargi’s more famous beaches, Cala Conneri feels a little quieter and more relaxed, though that obviously depends on how many boats arrive during the day.

Much like in the rest of Spargi, there are no facilities here, so come prepared with everything you may need — especially water, food, shade, and anything else you would normally bring for a full beach day.

And yes — much like nearby Cala Granara, the local wild boars occasionally make appearances here too. Keep bags closed, never leave food unattended, and absolutely do not feed them, no matter how friendly they may look.

Cala Conneri can only be reached by boat and is often included as a stop on boat tours around La Maddalena Archipelago.

Cala Soraya, one of the most beautiful beaches in La Maddalena, Sardinia.
Cala Soraya, one of the most beautiful beaches in La Maddalena, Sardinia

Cala Soraya

Cala Soraya is one of the smaller beaches on Spargi and one of those places that feels unexpectedly wild despite being relatively easy to reach by boat.

Surrounded by granite formations and Mediterranean vegetation, this small cove has a quieter and more secluded feel than many other beaches in the archipelago.

The water here is usually shallow, calm, and exceptionally clear. For this reason, Cala Soraya is a lovely place for swimming and a good option for families with children. The rocky edges of the cove are also nice for snorkeling.

The only practical way to visit Cala Soraya is by boat, and many boat tours around La Maddalena Archipelago stop here.

That said, the last time I visited with a friend, we actually swam here from nearby Cala Granara. We are both competitive swimmers and thought it would be fun — but I would not recommend this as a normal way of getting here. Most visitors should simply reach Cala Soraya by boat and enjoy a swim once they arrive.

There are no facilities on the beach, so come prepared with water, shade, and anything else you may need for the time you spend there.

Views of a beach in Caprera.
Beach views in Caprera

Where To Stay In La Maddalena

I usually recommend staying in La Maddalena town rather than elsewhere on the island. You’ll be close to restaurants, bars, the ferry port, and still only a short drive from the beaches and Caprera.

These are my favorite options:

Best Luxury Hotel In La Maddalena: Hotel Ma&Ma Resort – Adults-only and one of the nicest stays on the island. Expect a stylish atmosphere, spa facilities, pools, and an excellent location near Punta Tegge — a good choice for couples and special occasions.

Best Mid-Range Hotel In La Maddalena: Hotel Villa Del Parco – A relaxed Mediterranean-style hotel within easy reach of Punta Tegge, a 15-minute walk to the center of La Maddalena Town. Comfortable rooms with terraces and a very good breakfast.

Best Budget Stay In La Maddalena: Guest House Tra Rocce E Mare – Simple, comfortable rooms with free parking and easy access to the port and beaches. A good base if you plan to spend most of your days out exploring, and am excellent option for travelers on a budget.

Best Apartment In La Maddalena: AHR Residence Leoni Boutique-style accommodation in the center of town — ideal if you want more independence and restaurants within walking distance.

Best Secluded Stay In La Maddalena: Hotel Cala Lunga – Set away from La Maddalena town in Porto Massimo, this is a great option if you want a quieter stay surrounded by nature. Expect sea views, direct water access, and a more relaxed atmosphere than staying in town.

My post, Best Hotels In La Maddalena For Any Budget, shares more accommodation options.

Puffer Fish fritto misto in La Maddalena.
Fritto misto at Puffer Fish, one of my favorite restaurants in La Maddalena

Where To Eat And Drink In La Maddalena

La Maddalena isn’t one of Sardinia’s major food destinations, but there are enough good restaurants, bars, and gelato shops to eat very well during your stay — especially if your ideal day ends with seafood and a drink by the water.

These are the places I’d personally recommend:

  • Trattoria Dal Genovese — One of the best places to try local dishes alongside Ligurian influences that reflect part of La Maddalena’s history.
  • Puffer Fish — My favorite meal in La Maddalena when I visited with friends. Excellent seafood and fish close to the harbor. If I had to repeat one dinner on the island, this would be it.
  • Taverna Barò — Great for drinks, local wines, draft beer, and huge meat and cheese boards.
  • Civico 49 — My top pick for pizza after a long beach day.
  • Dolci Distrazioni — Only a handful of flavors, but consistently excellent gelato.
  • La Finestrella — Don’t be surprised if there’s a line outside this tiny gelato shop by the harbor — it’s usually worth the wait.
  • Punta Tegge — One of my favorite sunset spots. Grab a drink, borrow a pillow, sit on the rocks, and stay until the sun goes down.
  • Ristorante L’Agriturismo — A good choice for traditional Sardinian dishes in a relaxed setting.
  • Zi Antò — A reliable option for a seafood lunch with sea views.

Local tip: if you’re visiting in July or August, make dinner reservations in advance — however, keep in mind that some places (Puffer Fish, Civico 49) don’t take reservations.

My post, Best Restaurants In La Maddalena, includes more recommendations for the best local eateries.

Cala Granara, Spargi.
Quiet morning in Cala Granara Beach in Spargi

Practical Tips For Visiting La Maddalena

Can you visit La Maddalena without staying overnight?

Yes — but only in some cases.

A day trip to La Maddalena works well if you are already staying in Palau, the Emerald Coast, or elsewhere in Gallura, where reaching the ferry port is quick and easy.

If you are coming from farther away, I honestly would not recommend it.

In particular, I do not recommend trying to visit La Maddalena as a day trip from Alghero. And I would not even suggest squeezing it in while relocating from Alghero to the east coast and trying to see the archipelago on the same day.

Between the drive, parking at the ferry port, waiting times, and getting on a boat tour, you end up spending a huge amount of time in transit and not enough actually enjoying the beaches, hiking trails, boat trips, or the town itself.

If you only have one day available, my recommendation would be to either:

  • stay overnight in La Maddalena and enjoy it properly; or
  • book a boat tour if your priority is seeing the archipelago from the water.

And if you are based in Alghero and looking for a similar day out, consider Asinara National Park instead.

Asinara is one of my favorite places in Sardinia and, compared to La Maddalena, still feels much less affected by mass tourism. You’ll find incredible water, beautiful landscapes, wildlife, and a fascinating history — all much easier to experience as a day trip from Alghero or northwestern Sardinia.

La Sciumara Beach in Palau.
La Sciumara Beach in Palau

Should you stay in Palau or in La Maddalena?

This is one of the questions I get asked the most, and the answer really depends on how much time you have and what kind of trip you are planning.

Stay in La Maddalena if:

  • you want to spend several days exploring the beaches and Caprera;
  • you like the idea of swimming early in the morning or staying at the beach until sunset;
  • you want easier access to boat tours departing directly from the island;
  • you prefer slower evenings with dinner, gelato, and a walk around town rather than taking the ferry back to the mainland (though FYI ferries run throughout the night).

Staying overnight also lets you experience the islands before the day-trippers arrive and after they leave — which is honestly one of the nicest parts of being here.

Stay in Palau if:

  • you are road-tripping northern Sardinia;
  • you only have one or two nights available;
  • you plan to split your time between the archipelago and mainland Gallura, visiting places such as Santa Teresa di Gallura, the Emerald Coast, wineries in Gallura, or inland villages.

Personally, if you have three nights or more, I would base myself in La Maddalena without hesitation. You get to experience the islands before the day visitors arrive and after they leave — and that slower pace is, in my opinion, one of the best things about being there.

If you only have one or two nights, Palau is often the more practical choice.

Man on a SUP in Cala Coticcio, Sardinia.
Man on a SUP in Cala Coticcio

FAQs on La Maddalena

Is La Maddalena worth visiting?

Absolutely — but only if you give it enough time. La Maddalena is one of the most beautiful parts of Sardinia, with spectacular beaches, excellent boat trips, good hiking, and easy access to Caprera. I recommend staying at least three nights if possible.

How many days do you need in La Maddalena?

I recommend at least 3 days in La Maddalena. This gives you enough time to enjoy a few beaches, explore Caprera, and take a boat trip. If you like hiking and slower beach days, 4 to 5 days is even better.

Can you visit La Maddalena as a day trip?

Yes — but I only recommend this if you are staying in Palau, the Emerald Coast, or elsewhere in Gallura. I do not recommend visiting as a day trip from Alghero or trying to combine it with a relocation day across Sardinia. If you only have one day, a boat tour is often a better use of time.

Should you stay in Palau or La Maddalena?

Stay in La Maddalena if you want more beach time and easier access to Caprera. Stay in Palau if you are road-tripping northern Sardinia and want to combine multiple destinations. My personal preference for 3+ nights is staying in La Maddalena.

Do you need a car in La Maddalena?

Not necessarily, but it’s honestly better. You can stay in town and rely on buses and boat tours, but a car makes it much easier to reach beaches, trailheads, and Caprera. You can rent a car in mainland Sardinia and take it on the ferry to La Maddalena.

Can you visit Cala Coticcio independently?

No. Access to Cala Coticcio is regulated and you must join an authorized guided hike organized through official park guides. Boats are not allowed to land directly on the beach and can only stop offshore.

Which beaches in La Maddalena are best for families?

Some of the most family-friendly beaches are Bassa Trinità, Portese (Due Mari), Spalmatore, and Monti d’A Rena. They all have easier access and generally calmer, shallower water than other beaches.

When is the best time to visit La Maddalena?

For a beach vacation, my favorite time to visit La Maddalena is early July. Days are extremely long, sea temperatures are usually warm enough for comfortable swimming, and while it is busy, it tends to be slightly less crowded than August.

If you prefer fewer people and do not mind slightly shorter days, September is another excellent option and the sea is still very warm.

June can be beautiful too, especially for hiking and exploring, but keep in mind that sea temperatures may still feel cool depending on the year.

Boat tours and beach services typically operate from May through early October.

Blue waters at Budelli Natural Pools in La Maddalena Archipelago.
Blue waters at Budelli Natural Pools

Final Considerations

La Maddalena is one of those places in Sardinia that almost always exceeds expectations.

People usually come for the famous beaches and boat trips — and those are absolutely worth it — but what surprises most visitors is how much more there is once you slow down a bit. Caprera’s hiking trails, old military sites, quiet coves, long swims, sunset drinks, and evenings in town are often what people end up remembering most.

If there’s one piece of advice I’d leave you with, it’s this: give La Maddalena more time than you think it needs.

I know many visitors try to see it in a day, but if your itinerary allows it, stay at least a couple of nights. You’ll get to enjoy the beaches before the crowds arrive, stay out until sunset, and experience the islands at a completely different pace.

And remember — this is a national park, not a beach resort. Respect the rules, leave everything exactly where you found it, and enjoy it without rushing.

I’ve been coming here for years and still find reasons to return — whether it’s a beach I hadn’t visited in a while, a new hiking route, or simply an excuse to spend a day in the water.

I hope you enjoy La Maddalena as much as I do.

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What to wear in Sardinia

Claudia Tavani was born and raised in Sardinia, and after moving between the United States and the United Kingdom, she's now back living in her hometown, Cagliari. She's a travel blogger and certified travel designer who loves planning trips and publishing guides, travel tips, and packing lists so that you don't have to. Owner of Strictly Sardinia, cat mom to Minnie. Loves pizza, hiking, archeology, cities, beaches, swimming, and running. Hates peppers.

32 thoughts on “La Maddalena, Sardinia: Complete Local Guide”

  1. Hello Tyler. Many beaches in La Maddalena and Caprera (which you can also reach by car or bike) have beach clubs where you can rent umbrellas etc. They don’t normally rent out snorkel equipment and ice chests (I assume you mean coolers!).

  2. Hi Claudia,

    I will be visiting La Maddalena for 8 days next summer and I am curios if you know of any places to rent beach equipment, like umbrellas, ice chests, snorkel equipment, etc.

    Thanks,
    -Tyler

  3. You don’t need to worry so much. There’s a ferry every 15 minutes and they run all day and all night. Once you get to Palau, reach the harbor. You will have to join the line of cars that are getting on the ferry. If there’s a few of you traveling, you can stay in the car while someone else goes gets the tickets. With so many ferries departing, the chances of not finding one are none.

  4. Hello Claudia,
    Thanks for all your great articles! They help a lot in planning our trip!
    I read your answer to Bobbi (may 23) about the Ferrys but I am still a little bit worried… We want to go on Maddalena island in July with a rented car. I read a lot of comments on these ferrys on Internet and lots of them say that the price is diffrent between the 2 companies and diffrent if you book on the internet, if you buy your ticket at the harbor and even on the ferry. Also, booking on the internet doesn’t seem to reserve a place, so if it is full you may not have a place and in our case, we may arrive around the hour of the last ferry of the day…

    Is my comprehension correct? Are prices really fixed wherever you buy your ticket? Is there a way to reserve a spot for a specific hour?

    Thanks a lot!
    Isabelle

  5. Hello Steven! Yes, tours run all the way until the end of September so you don’t have to worry about that. If your flight is at 1:40, you must be at the airport around 11:40 to have time to return your car and check in comfortably. It’s about one hour to get to the airport from Palau, where the ferry leaves you. So you should leave your hotel no later than 9:30 am to arrive at the airport comfortably, and a bit earlier just in case you want to be extra safe. There’s no reason to book a night in Arzachena!

  6. Hi Claudia!!
    Brilliant Blog! Thank you!
    We will be visiting Sardinia end of August/early September. I saved La Maddalena Island and archipelago for the end of the trip thinking that in early September the crowds may be a bit less. But will tours (both boat and hiking) be as plentiful?
    My primary question is about our return. If we have a 1:40 plan from OLB airport, should we feel comfortable leaving early that morning from our hotel, have time to drop off the car (AVIS) and still be on time without rushing or getting a panic attack? I’d rather spend the last night in Maddalena rather than book one night in Arzachena for instance just to be a bit closer to OLB. Is that doable?
    Thanks so much! Your blog has been incredibly helpful in planning our trip!
    Steven

  7. Hello Lulu, thank you for asking all these questions – they will be helpful for other readers too!

    First the good news (for your mom):

    Taking the ferry to La Maddalena is easy-peasy. You don’t even need to reserve in advance. Just go to Palau with your car, and ferries are leaving roughly every 30 minutes. You just need to buy a ticket once you get there. The ferry ride is about 20 minutes.

    La Maddalena is not crowded at all in May. The crowds start to arrive towards mid-June – so your mom has nothing to worry about in this sense.

    Now, the (slightly) bad news:

    Early May can be a bit of a hit-and-miss in terms of beach weather. Some years it can be super warm and we enjoy the beach, other years it won’t be as warm. The water is definitely cold though (that’s a given!). May is by far the best month to enjoy everything else this wonderful archipelago has to offer – for example the hikes and the sites.

    With regards to businesses being open: well, La Maddalena is a small town proper with locals living there too, and they go out to eat, shop etc, so things will be open. You may have a more limited choice of restaurants and some are indeed only open for the main tourist season, but the major plus is that you will get to enjoy more of a local side of La Maddalena.

    Hope this helps!

  8. Hi Claudia! We are planning a trip to Sardinia with my parents in the first half of May (definitely hiring a car) and I’m trying to convince them to spend a couple of nights on La Maddalena for their 30th wedding anniversary. Unfortunately, for now my mum is not keen because she thinks that getting the ferry will be too complicated and she is worried because someone told her that the place is very crowded but also that there won’t be much open if we come before the end of May. She is pretty set on staying in Santa Teresa Gallura then going to the islands in the south west instead. In my opinion we should just do both as we will have the time anyways (we’ll be in Sardinia for 10 days minimum). Any help, thoughts or recommendations on how to convince her? Thank you!!

  9. Hi Claudia,

    Fantastic article! It makes me want to see everything!

    We were planning on bringing a car over to the island but only have 1 day to see the island. What would you recommend to see for a 1 day itinerary?

    Thank you!

  10. Hello Bobbi! There are departures literally every 15 minutes. Once you get to the harbor, get the tickets and then get in line (with the car). There normally are no issues, but if you miss the ferry you can still get on the next one as you will be at the front of the line. Prices are fixed 🙂

  11. Hi Claudia! We will be visiting Sardinia the first week of June 2023, and will have a car. Just want to double check to make sure it is not necessary to book the ferry to La Maddelena in advance? Does it not fill up at that time of year? And does the price not go up if you wait until the day of?
    P.S. Thank you for your awesome bog! It is such a helpful resource!!!

  12. Rent a car at Olbia Airport, drive to Palau and hop on the ferry with the car (no need to book in advance for the ferry) and use it to move around the island.

  13. Hi Claudia this is amazing thank-you. My 19 yo daughter and I are staying for 6 nights from Australia. We plan on
    doing a boat tour and basically just exploring. Would you recommend hiring a car or an electric bike or scooter? We are both fairly fit (she is fitter!).
    And…is it best to hire a car from Pulau, Olbia or on island?
    Thanks again! Can’t wait.

  14. Grazie mille!

    Appreciate all of the thoughtful information that you have shared and I am looking very forward to my upcoming trip to Maddalena in May.

  15. Ciao Claudia,

    we will be visiting in July-August & was wondering if there is any beach volleyball doubles anywhere on the island

  16. Absolutely! There are plenty of beaches that are easy to reach by car or by boat (taxi boat) and in virtually ALL places water is very shallow!

  17. Hi Claudia, I got several recommendations to visit La Maddalena but we have a 5 year old, so long walks and rocky or deep beaches are not the best. Do you think we could make a 3/4 day trip to Maddalena kid friendly? Thanks!

  18. My husband and I met 22+ years ago in a little bar called the Rolling Rock on La Maddalena. This beautiful island sparked our love and we’ll be forever thankful. Someday, hopefully we’ll get a chance to bring all of our children and show them where our love began!

  19. Sai che non so niente? Onestamente credo che nei periodi del turismo di massa, comunque, gli animali stiano alla larga!

  20. ciao Claudia, ho letto che a dicembre 2021 il comune ha intrapreso un’azione di contenimento della popolazione dei cinghiali tramite attività venatoria.
    Sai dirmi se sia ancora frequente incontrare esemplari in spiaggia?
    Vorrei visitare per qualche giorno la maddalena e caprera in luglio ma l’idea di un faccia a faccia con con un cinghiale mi trattiene abbastanza.

  21. Claudia, I think you meant to say the joy of driving around La Maddalena cannot be “overstated”! Bringing my first sail tour there in September, going over with a car for a few days before to scout and enjoy (then a week on land down to Cagliari). Thanks for the tips!

    Edward’s Sailing Adventures

  22. Even then, I would not dismiss blogs that aren’t written by locals. I have two more blogs other than this. One is about international travel and I can assure you each and every bit I write is based on my experience visiting a place (at times just once; in other cases multiple times), extended research, and truly thorough! Running a blog (or three, like in my case) is actually way more work than one can imagine 😉

  23. Grazie Claudia, I’m sorry I was meaning travel blogs written by outside tourists. I truly appreciate your insight as a native and local and find your writing and work fantastic. I am so grateful to have come across your blog as others could not be close to comparing. We are hoping to book 2 nights and will look to your advice written for where to hike, eat, swim. Grazie Mille!!!

  24. Hello Melanie, I am not sure what you mean with your comment “although we appreciate the sights listed in blogs/book, we much prefer to talk to the locals.” I run this blog, but I am also a local… Anyways. I think 2 nights should be your MINIMUM stay in La Maddalena. There are lots of coves, boat tours, hikes, vistas etc!!

  25. Ciao!
    My husband and I are looking to travel to La Maddalena on our first trip to Sardinia (July 17th-Aug 2) and would love to know if we should spend 1 or 2 nights there. We love to hike, eat, drink, explore hidden gems and local culture. Our last trip 3 years ago was to Corse and I can’t wait to return to Italy (I studied abroad many years ago a Firenze). We are from San Francisco, CA and although we appreciate the sights listed in blogs/book, we much prefer to talk to the locals and get insider tips on where to seek out the favored local spots and immerse ourselves in the people, food, wine, and land! Wishing you all wellness and health.
    Grazie mille!
    Melanie

  26. Thank you so much for these beautiful reminders of my days as a newlywed. I lived on La Maddalena for 16 months (my husband much longer with the US Navy), and hated to leave it when the time came. We tried to come back at the first opportunity, but the base closure had been announced. This beautiful area will always have a special place in my heart.

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