The Best Guide To The Emerald Coast Sardinia By A Local

Looking for the ultimate Emerald Coast Sardinia guide? You’re in the right place.

I live in Sardinia. While I am based in Cagliari, the capital city, I roam the island all the time (and especially in the summer). I have been doing this since I was born. Growing up, I had relatives who lived in Arzachena (the main town in the Emerald Coast, and recently added to the list of the Blue Zone towns of Sardinia). We visited them regularly.

This area on the northeastern coast of Sardinia is filled with white sand beaches, luxurious resorts, giant yachts, and great wineries. It’s literally an Italian gem. Though I must warn you, it is hardly hidden. It’s one of the most popular summer destinations in the Mediterranean. But can you blame people for wanting to visit this slice of heaven on earth?

Whether you’re seeking astonishing archeological sites or beautiful beaches, the Emerald Coast of Sardinia is brimming with everything your heart desires. It’s one of the best places to stay in Sardinia to explore gorgeous beaches and pamper yourself in a bit of luxury.

In this post, I highlight the best beaches in Sardinia’s Emerald Coast and the unmissable things to do. But first, let me share some useful information that will help you plan your visit.

If you wish to explore further than the Emerald Coast, head over to my Guide To Gallura, Sardinia. It has tips on places to visit, activities and more.

How To Get To The Emerald Coast Sardinia

There are three airports in Sardinia – Cagliari Elmas, Alghero Fertilia, and Olbia Costa Smeralda. They are all well connected to the rest of Italy and Europe via a number of direct flights (that usually increase during the peak season between May and October). You can also fly to Sardinia from North America via Rome, Milan, London, Paris, and Amsterdam.

The airport that specifically serves the Emerald Coast is Olbia Costa Smeralda. It is about 27 km (16.7 miles) from Arzachena, and just 19 km (11.8 miles) from Porto Rotondo. There are cheap buses from Olbia Airport to Arzachena that take about one hour. There is also a regular connection to the main hubs of the Emerald Coast, such as Portocervo.

Otherwise, the easiest way to travel from the airport to the Emerald Coast is by private transfer. I usually recommend Welcome Pickups as they have reliable cars and excellent drivers. Or you can consider renting a car for your trip (more about this in a bit).

I don’t recommend trying to reach the Emerald Coast if you fly into Cagliari or Alghero. It’s quite a drive: factor in about 3.5 hours from Cagliari and about 2 hours from Alghero.

My post How To Get To Olbia From The Airport explains how to best travel from the airport to the Emerald Coast.

How To Get Around

The best way (and in fact, the only way) to get around Sardinia’s Emerald Coast is by car. Unless you are planning to just stay in your hotel or resort and visit the nearby beach, the only option to explore further to visit a winery, an archeological site, or go on a day trip) is to drive.

Sardinia is a fantastic road trip destination. The scenic roads of the Emerald Coast are very inviting for a drive. Traffic in the summer can be a bit more hectic and slower, but it’s never that bad.

I have written a detailed guide on How To Rent A Car In Olbia, and in case you are wondering my recommended site for car rental is Discover Cars. It’s a comparison site that I use on a regular basis, anywhere in the world, and that always lands me the best deals on car rental. They have 24/7 support in case anything happens.

Best Time To Visit The Emerald Coast

Many may dissent, but as a local I always say that the best time to visit Sardinia is July, or any time in the summer. Of course, this is also the best time to visit the Emerald Coast. This is when all the bars and restaurants are open, when you will be able to make the most of the beautiful beaches, and when everything is bustling with energy.

Of course, the summer is also when the Emerald Coast is truly crowded – but it’s still doable.

I visited twice last summer – once in mid-July, and the beaches were packed but the days were beautifully sunny and long; and once at the end of September, and it was quieter and it was easier to find a spot at the beach.

The point is to know what to expect: don’t go in the peak summer months and expect to have the beach to yourself as it’s never going to happen!

How Long Should You Stay?

If you are wondering how many days you need to properly explore the Emerald Coast, let me tell you there’s no right or wrong answer. You can pop in just for a day to visit a beach, then check out the vibe of Porto Cervo and San Pantaleo, but you can also decide to spend a week there to explore at a more relaxed pace.

If you decide to stay longer, you’ll have more time to visit all the beaches, explore the small towns, visit some archeological sites and wineries too. There are plenty of things to do in the Emerald Coast to keep yourself busy. Of course, the longer you stay, the higher your budget needs to be.

When I visited last July, I spent 4 days there – each day visiting a different beach, trying a different restaurant every nice. When I went in September, I only stayed for a weekend and even then it was a memorable experience.

My post How Long Should You Stay In Sardinia? will provide more guidance in deciding how long you should spend on the island.

Where To Stay In The Emerald Coast Sardinia

The Emerald Coast of Sardinia is known to be a luxury holiday destination, and if you are hoping to visit Sardinia on a tight budget, this is definitely not where you should opt to go.

If you have the budget to splurge, you won’t have an issue finding some wonderful accommodation options. If your budget is smaller, there are still some good places to stay that may not be quite as luxurious but still comfortable and cozy.

Here is my selection of the best places to stay in the Emerald Coast.

Luxury

• Hotel Cala di Volpe – A destination in and of itself, this resort is perched over a glittering cove and has 124 rooms and 16 suites, each individually designed with unique Sardinian art, textiles, and furniture. It was featured in the 1977 James Bond movie, The Spy Who Loved Me.
• Petra Segreta – This is my favorite hotel in the area. It’s not by the beach as it’s in San Pantaleo, so you’ll need a car to get around. But the setting is impressive, and the views stunning. Rooms are spacious, and the on-site restaurant lives up to the hype.
• Hotel Pitrizza – Just outside Porto Cervo, this hotel features tastefully furnished rooms in a blend of modern and traditional style. It also has its private beach.

Mid-Range

• Cervo Hotel – This five-star resort in Porto Cervo comes complete with its own private beach. an outdoor pool, and immaculately clean rooms.
• Relais Villa Carola – One of the most elegant hotels in Porto Cervo, each room is furnished in a traditional Sardinian style and nicely immersed in nature.
• Colonna Resort – This is one of the best places to stay in the Emerald Coast if you want direct access to the beach. There’s a large pool where you can relax, too.

Budget

• Palazzo Beddoro – Lovely small apartment in the heart of San Pantaleo, overlooking the mountains. It’s perfect for a couple.
• La Suara Tolta – Last time I visited, I stayed in this place in San Pantaleo countryside and enjoyed it. It’s nothing luxurious, but it’s comfortable and you have everything you need, including a kitchen. The owners are very kind too.

My post The Best Hotels In Porto Cervo includes a wider selection of places to stay in the Emerald Coast of Sardinia.

Best Restaurants In The Emerald Coast

Food in Sardinia is always delicious, and you won’t have trouble finding a good restaurant in the Emerald Coast of Sardinia, whatever kind of meal you are looking to have. Unfortunately, many places are quite expensive, and if you are visiting in the summer, you will need to book in advance as they can fill up quickly.

Of all the places I have tried in the area, these are my favorite ones:

• Fuoco Sacro – Perfect for a special occasion, this Michelin-starred restaurant is one of my favorites in Sardinia. I visited last summer to celebrate my birthday, and it was a wonderful experience. It’s located in the Petra Segreta Resort. It’s very expensive, but worth every cent.
• Somu – Another Michelin restaurant, this one is in Porto Cervo. Expect to have the very best of modern Italian cuisine.
• ConFusion – One more for the fancy restaurants, the setting and the food here are worth paying for.
• Parco degli Ulivi – Just outside Arzachena, it’s a lovely spot that serves excellent food.
• Da Giovannino – Located in Porto Rotondo, Da Giovannino serves some of the best dishes of the local tradition.
• Pizzeria Ichnos – If all you want is a pizza, this nice pizzeria in the center of San Pantaleo is where you need to go.

Best Beaches In Emerald Coast Sardinia

The Emerald Coast isn’t called the Emerald Coast for nothing! The gorgeous coastline is filled with white sandy beaches (most of them are just small coves, to be fair) and pristine turquoise waters that make it a perfect spot for swimming.

The following are the best beaches in the Emerald Coast Sardinia.

Good to know: If you are short on time but want to visit as many beaches in the Emerald Coast as possible, you could join this excellent boat tour on a sustainable boat.

Capriccioli

Situated just south of Porto Cervo, Capriccioli Beach is a small strip of white sand surrounded by Mediterranean brush. The olive and pine trees provide an excellent wind-barrier. The waters are transparent, shallow, and usually very calm.

Given the safety factors of the calm and clear water, this beach is quite popular with families. It’s actually one of the most crowded beaches in the area, but if you ask me it’s also the prettiest. There are two coves at Capriccioli, and for some reason, the northernmost one gets significantly more people.

The beach is equipped with a beach club (but you need to book your umbrella in advance), there are a couple of parking lots within easy walking distance, and a café serving quick meals and sandwiches right by the access point.

I have written A Detailed Guide To Capriccioli Beach that will help you with more information on this unique beach.

La Celvia

La Celvia Beach is actually within easy walking distance of Capriccioli. The beach is named after the deer (celvia, in the local language) that were found in the area until about a century ago. It’s a small cove, but it has fine, white sands to relax on and the glittering calm, turquoise waters to bathe in.

Piccolo and Grande Pevero

Piccolo and Grande Pevero Beach are actually two beaches in one. The smaller beach, Piccolo, measures 146 meters (less than 0.1 miles), and the larger beach, Grande Pevero, spans 343 meters (0.2 miles). Both beaches lie south of Porto Cervo.

There’s also a pond (La Padula pond) right behind the Grande Pevero beach which is home to fantastically unique birds – from the purple heron to black storks.

Piccolo and Grande Pevero are among the most popular beaches in the Emerald Coast, and it’s likely you’ll spot a celebrity or two here.

The beach is surrounded by shrubs, so it is protected from the wind. There are canoes, jet skis, and pedal boats available to rent if you want to take a break from sunbathing.

Spiaggia del Principe

Officially ranked as one of the 20 most beautiful beaches in the world, Spiaggia del Principe (Principe Beach) is a slice of paradise. Also called Poltu Li Cogghi Beach by locals, this is a white arch of sand at the bottom of a deep inlet. Colossal pink granite rocks shelter it, and there is actually granite right in the seabed.

The granite turns the water of many different colors and changing hues that go from cobalt blue to emerald green and even whitish-pink.

Romazzino

The beach of Romazzino is just north of the village of Romazzino, and 6 km (3.7 miles) southeast of Porto Cervo. It’s one of the largest coves in the area (it measures 400 meters, roughly 0.25 miles) and it is sheltered from the wind and has wonderfully shallow waters. It is also a popular spot for snorkeling.

Right in the middle of the beach, there is a long wooden pier that is the perfect spot to snap a memorable photo!

Liscia Ruja

By far the longest beach in Sardinia’s Emerald Coast, it measures 800 meters (0.5 miles), and so many tourists nicknamed it Long Beach. The name derives from the Gallurese language spoken in northern Sardinia: liscia means “valley where a river flows” and ruja means “red”. Indeed, several small rivers flow behind the beach.

Sand here has hues of red and pink. Water is incredibly clear – a deep emerald color.

You will find a large parking lot and places where you can rent umbrellas and other beach equipment, as well as have a bite to eat.

Petra Ruja

Close to Liscia Ruja, this is one of the lesser-known beaches in the Emerald Coast. To get there, you have to park your car in the paid parking lot and then walk for about 1 km (0.6 miles) on an easy trail.

There really isn’t much in terms of services on this beach – just a kiosk that has super expensive prices. So bring whatever you need for the day.

The beach has lovely, soft sand and shallow, clear waters, so it’s perfect for a family (provided your kids don’t mind walking for a short while to get there.

Cala Granu

Granu (grano in Italian) means wheat, and that’s exactly what the name of this beach refers to: the wheat fields that used to be located right at the back of the beach, in the Monti di Mola area. It’s one of the less famous Emerald Coast beaches, but a gorgeous one too: expect turquoise water that’s perfect for snorkeling.

Things To Do In The Emerald Coast Sardinia

Visit Arzachena

Arzachena is the main town of the Emerald Coast, though technically it’s not located right on the coast. It’s a truly colorful place (one of the most charming small towns in Sardinia), where you will find many more budget-friendly accommodation options, several farmhouses (called stazzi locally, and referred to as agriturismo in Italian), and many good restaurants.

It’s a nice place to visit for an afternoon, if you feel like you need to get away from the beach (and the crowds). Located inside the town, you’ll find the Monti Incappiddhatu, “mountain with a hat,” also called the “mushroom rock.” It’s a rock that was shaped and used in the Neolithic age.

But there’s more to see just outside. Continue reading…

I have written a detailed Local Guide To Arzachena where I highlight the best attractions and activities in town.

Explore the archeological sites

There are several nuraghe near Arzachena, but if you decide to visit just one, opt to go to La Prisgiona. The site was inhabited from the 14th century BC until the Roman colonization in the 9th century BC, and research shows that the Romans actually used the complex for quite some time before it was completely abandoned.

Other places you may want to visit – and for which you can get the Arzachena Archeological Park ticket – include Coddu ‘Ecchju Giants’ Tomb, a great example of nuragic funerary architecture (and the burial site for the inhabitants of La Prisgiona); Li Lolghi Giants’ Tomb, and the Li Muri necropolis, the oldest site, dating from the late 4th millennium BC.

My post What You Need To Know About La Prisgiona Nuraghe explains more about this unique archeological site.

Wine tasting

The Emerald Coast is part of the Gallura region of northern Sardinia, which is famous for producing the highest quality Vermentino di Gallura wine.

This dry white wine is delicate with strong floral notes, but well-balanced with acidity and minerality. The best way to discover this wine (and other Sardinian wines) is by visiting a local winery and opting for a wine tasting experience. Thankfully, there are many in the area to pick from.

My favorite is Surrau. I visited last July and enjoyed not just the wines (my favorite is Barriu, which actually isn’t a Vermentino but a deep red wine), but also the relaxing setting and the beautiful views of the vineyards.

Other wineries you may want to visit in the area are Capichera (it makes one of the most famous Vermentino wines) and Olbios.

Enjoy the quaint San Pantaleo

San Pantaleo is my favorite small town in the Emerald Coast. It’s located on the hills about 14 kilometers (8.7 miles) south of Porto Cervo. While most of the other towns in the Emerald Coast of Sardinia were planned and created in the 1960s for the sake of tourism and can feel a bit fake, San Pantaleo has a history that dates all the way back to 800 BC.

Plan your visit for a Thursday morning, when the town market takes place – it’s a real feast for the eyes. Alternatively, head there just before sunset as the town turns pink and the main square becomes lively with wine bars and aperitivo places.

My post A Short Guide To San Pantaleo shares more tips on what to see and do in this charming small town.

Check out Porto Cervo

Porto Cervo is the main hub of the Emerald Coast. It is a fairly new place, as it was built from scratch in the 1960s by Prince Karim Aga Khan IV (who fell in love with this part of the island). It’s a tiny place of no more than 400 permanent residents, which flourished when the new tourist port was built in the 1980s.

It’s a very expensive place. The marina docks enormous luxury yachts of the rich and famous. The town center is a series of luxury boutique stores where the average person can at most go window shopping.

The architecture in Porto Cervo is definitely interesting. Make sure to spot the Stella Maris church: it almost looks like a work of Gaudi, though it was designed by Michele Busiri Vici.

To be fair, I am not the biggest fan of Porto Cervo, and many times, after bringing friends who had insisted on visiting, the reaction I got was “is that it?” – yet, it’s one of the things to do in the Emerald Coast of Sardinia, so you should still visit.

Pop into Porto Rotondo

Porto Rotondo is known as the chief competitor of Porto Cervo. 30-minute drive south of Porto Cervo, Porto Rotondo is a picturesque small town with exclusive nightclubs, beautiful beaches, and chic boutiques.

Much like Porto Cervo, the number of permanent residents is very small – but the population swells in the summer months. The local Porto Rotondo Yacht Club was founded in 1985 to solidify this town’s luxe factor.

Porto Rotondo itself was architecturally styled after Venice and was named for the circular bay around which it is nestled.

If you are very short on time but still want to visit the Emerald Coast, you may want to consider this guided tour that includes transportation from Olbia. It stops in Porto Cervo, Porto Rotondo, and San Pantaleo.

Scuba diving in Cannigione

Cannigione sits roughly 10 km (6.2 miles) east of Porto Cervo, within easy driving distance from Arzachena. It has a pristine beach, a bustling long promenade, and a modern port and here you’ll find lots of excellent restaurants and nice shops.

Many people visit, as this is one of the best diving spots in Sardinia – there are several centers that run diving expeditions, but if you are not into that, it’s also a great place for snorkeling.

Most importantly, it’s one of the best diving spots in Sardinia! After the shallows, the water in Cannigione slopes downwards, revealing lots of fish and a bank of seagrass to explore.

Enjoy some water sports in Baja Sardinia

Baja Sardinia is a small resort town with a mere handful of bars, shops, and restaurants sprinkled throughout the villas, resorts, and hotels. It’s not part of the Emerald Coast, but it sits right outside, so it’s fairly easy to visit.

If you’re in the mood for some epic water sports activities, this is the place to do it. Given the bay’s position, it’s a perfect spot for windsurfing and sailing.

Sunset at Phi Beach

For one of the most beautiful sunsets in Sardinia, head to Phi Beach in Baja Sardinia. Since it’s so close to Arzachena and an easy drive from Porto Cervo, it’d be a pity to miss it!

Phi Beach is an upscale beach club that’s also a great place to admire the sunset. It’s a rather exclusive place to be, and the fee to get in isn’t exactly cheap – though it is worth it. At sunset, the light changes, and you can sip a cocktail while listening to live music or a DJ set.

Check out the hidden harbor of Poltu Quatu

Poltu Quatu is located about 30 km (18.6 miles) north of Porto Rotondo, and just 2 km (1.2 miles) from Porto Cervo, on the northernmost tip of the Emerald Coast. The name translates into “hidden harbor” in English, and that’s exactly what it is.

There isn’t much there other than a resort (I have stayed there once, the location was truly exclusive) with a few shops, bars, and restaurants, as well as a sailing and diving school. It’s also a good place to hop on a boat for a tour of the coast.

Go for a day trip to the Maddalena Archipelago

Speaking of boat tours, for an incredible day at sea, consider driving to Palau, and hop on a boat tour of the Maddalena Archipelago. Palau is just a 35-minute drive from Porto Cervo, but a world apart, and so is La Maddalena.

You will be sailing along the clearest, most pristine waters you’ll ever see in your life, stopping at the uninhabited island of Spargi (only wild boars live there) and swimming in the natural pools of Budelli island (where the famous pink beach is located).

I recommend this catamaran tour of the Maddalena Archipelago that departs from Palau. It includes lunch, and you will also have snorkeling equipment on board.

I have written a more detailed post that highlights The Best Boat Tours Of La Maddalena where you will find even more options for a day at sea.

Drive to Capo Testa

Capo Testa is just one hour drive north of Porto Cervo, close to the lovely Santa Teresa di Gallura. Of course, this is not in the Emerald Coast but it’s still easy to reach if you are basing yourself in Porto Cervo, San Pantaelo or Arzachena.

It’s a lovely place to catch sunset views, and to go for a walk. Not far from it, Cala Spinosa beach is a bit challenging to reach, but the vibe is completely different from that of the beaches of the Emerald Coast (think: nothing in terms of services).

Tips For Visiting The Emerald Coast, Sardinia

I have some final tips for those of you planning a getaway to Sardinia’s Emerald Coast.

• Book your accommodation in advance. I can’t begin to tell you how important this is. This is the most expensive part of Sardinia, and cheaper accommodation options are very limited. If you wish to visit in July, consider booking in January at the latest.
• Don’t expect this to be the real Sardinia. The Emerald Coast is the most touristy area of Sardinia, and very few locals spend their holidays there. Most locals you’ll see are often just people working in the resorts and restaurants.
• Rent a car for your trip. Fair enough, I had already said this at the beginning of the post, but it’s worth repeating: you’ll feel stuck without, and taxis in the area are very expensive. When driving, remember that seeing sheep in the street isn’t uncommon in Sardinia, so slow down!
• Don’t take sand and shells from the beach. I have a post on Sardinian sand where I explain why, and what happens if you do.

Emerald Coast FAQs

Conclusions On The Emerald Coast Sardinia

If I have to give you a warning, it is not to expect to visit authentic Sardinia when you go to the Emerald Coast. While this part of the island is certainly charming, and the beaches are magnificent, it’s also a place where not many locals can afford to travel, so it almost feels like foreign territory to us.

Having said so, if you can afford to spend a few days there, definitely go and hopefully my guide on the things to do on the Emerald Coast, the best beaches and all the tips will help you have a wonderful time.