The Best Local Guide To Costa Rei, Sardinia

I have been going to Costa Rei since I was born. As a baby, my parents would take me camping there. As the years rolled by, they rented a holiday home, and later on, they actually invested in a property. To this day, my parents spend five months a year in Costa Rei.

Costa Rei is a magical place. Situated on the southeast coast of Sardinia, approximately a one-hour drive from Cagliari and easy to visit on a day trip from the capital, it is a series of stunning beaches and beautiful landscapes. Plan to spend at least a few days there to relax and enjoy the beaches.

Since Costa Rei is, in fact, my home away from home, I’m eager to share all its best-kept secrets and prepare you for your visit. Because I am a local, I really know everything about it – the best Costa Rei beaches, the best Costa Rei restaurants, how to get around Costa Rei, and more.

Continue reading to discover what makes Costa Rei special and how to make the most of your visit.

Is Costa Rei Worth Visiting?

Costa Rei is one of those places that offers exactly what most people come to Sardinia for: long stretches of white sand, clear water, and space to breathe. It’s not exactly a coastal town, but more of a locality — a stretch of gorgeous beaches and a holiday resort area where many locals own a holiday home, where shops, restaurants, and services typically close in the off-season.

This is a destination where your day naturally falls into a rhythm: beach in the morning, a slow lunch, back to the sea, then dinner at home or somewhere nearby. There’s no pressure to “see” places, do things or tick boxes. For many people – and that includes my family and myself – that’s exactly the point.

Costa Rei doesn’t have a historic center or major landmarks: it is made up of small residential areas, holiday homes, and a few clusters of services spread along the coast.

But that doesn’t mean it lacks identity. Its character comes from the coastline itself — long, open beaches, low development, and a quieter, more local feel compared to more polished resort areas. It’s the kind of place people return to year after year for that exact reason.

If your idea of a good trip is slow days by the sea, this works very well. If you’re expecting a lively destination with lots going on, it can feel too quiet.

Who Costa Rei is best for

• Beach-focused trips: You’re here for the sea, and Costa Rei delivers. The coastline is long, sandy, and easily accessible, with plenty of space even in July and August. You don’t need to hunt for hidden coves — the main beach is the reason to come. But if small coves are what you are after, there are plenty.
• Families: Shallow water, soft sand, and a generally relaxed setup make it an easy choice with kids. There’s nothing complicated about being here, and that matters when you’re traveling as a family. There are some excellent family-friendly resorts and lots of holiday rentals.
• Couples looking to switch off: Costa Rei is quiet, spread out, and not built around nightlife. Even in peak season, it rarely feels chaotic. If you want somewhere low-key where your days revolve around the beach, this works well.
• Repeat visitors to Sardinia: If it’s not your first time in Sardinia and you’ve already seen busier areas, Costa Rei feels more laid-back and less polished. It’s not trying to impress — and that’s often what people end up liking about it.

Who should consider other areas

• If you want a proper town atmosphere: There isn’t a real center — just a series of small hubs with a few restaurants and shops. If you want a place with more life in the evenings, Villasimius is a better fit.
• If you don’t plan to rent a car: Costa Rei is spread out and public transport is limited. There is a bus from Cagliari to various spots in Costa Rei, and you can manage without a car only if you stay in a very specific spot and don’t plan to move much — otherwise, you’ll feel stuck. A friend of mine and his girlfriend last year did not rent a car, and they regretted it.
• If nightlife matters: There are restaurants and a few bars, but that’s it. No clubs, no real nightlife scene, and things wind down fairly early. If you want a lively place, opt for the Emerald Coast or San Teodoro.
• If you want variety without driving: The beach is excellent, but beyond that, you’ll need to get in the car. Places like Capo Ferrato or nearby small towns are worth seeing, but nothing is within easy walking distance.

If you go with the right expectations, Costa Rei is a very easy place to enjoy. It’s not trying to be everything — and that’s exactly why locals love it.

Where Is Costa Rei?

Costa Rei is on the southeast coast of Sardinia, in the territory of Muravera, in the Sarrabus region. It stretches along a long, open coastline facing the Mediterranean, with beaches that run for several kilometers without interruption.

It sits between Villasimius to the south and Capo Ferrato to the north, in a part of Sardinia that feels more open and less built-up compared to other coastal areas. This is why choosing where to stay matters, and also why having a car makes things much easier.

How far is Costa Rei from Cagliari Elmas Airport

Of the three Sardinian airports, the best one to use for Costa Rei is Cagliari Elmas, which serves the capital and the south of Sardinia. Costa Rei is about 65 km (40 miles) from the airport.

• Driving time: around 1 hour to 1 hour 15 minutes from the airport, just 1 hour from Cagliari
• Road type: mostly coastal or secondary roads, with some winding sections

The drive is straightforward, and once you leave the outskirts of Cagliari, the scenery quickly opens up — especially as you get closer to the coast.

Traffic can be slow in July and August, and especially at the weekend, but outside peak season it’s generally an easy transfer.

How to get to Costa Rei

By car

As I have said before, if you want to make the most of Costa Rei and its surroundings, you should really rent a car in Cagliari once you arrive. My go-to company for car rental is Discover Cars. It’s a comparison site that allows you to pick the best car for your budget and needs.

If you’re driving from Cagliari, you will want to take the new road that is quicker – unless you are ok driving along a very windy (yet panoramic) road.

This is the best route to take:

• Take SS (State Road) 554, follow the signs that will point you towards Muravera, and then hop on the SS125.
• There are two exits for Costa Rei – the first exit is closer to the town, but there’s a traffic light at a narrow bridge, and in the peak season, there may be more traffic. The second exit is closer to Olia Speciosa.

By private transfer

If you don’t fancy driving, but would rather not take the bus, you can book a private transfer from the airport. My favorite company for private transfers is Welcome Pickup – I have used them widely in many countries and always found their service to be excellent.

By public bus

If you are traveling to Sardinia on a budget, you will be happy to know you can get to Costa Rei by bus from Cagliari. Here’s how to do it:

• From Cagliari Airport, take the train to the center of town.
• Take bus 101 or 135 from the main bus station in Piazza Matteotti (next to the train station). There are several departures every day.
• The trip takes about 2 hours as the bus follows the old panoramic road.
• There are various stops along the Via Ichnusa in Costa Rei, so make sure to get off at the right one.

My post How To Get To Cagliari From The Airport shares more options to travel from the airport to the city.

By guided tour

I normally recommend spending at least 3 or 4 days in Costa Rei to take in everything that the area has to offer. However, if you don’t have much time, you will be glad to know Costa Rei is easy to visit on day trips from Cagliari (I do it all the time to see my parents in the summer!).

If you don’t want to drive, some guided tour options will take you there.

This guided tour to Marina Rei and Sant’Elmo Beach in Costa Rei departs on Sundays at 9:00 am and lasts 8 hours. You will be provided with an umbrella for shade, but will have to bring whatever else you may need for the day.

Another tour you may want to consider is this tour that goes to Porto Giunco Beach in Villasimius and to Cala Sinzias in Costa Rei. It departs at 9:00 am on Tuesdays, Thursdays, and Saturdays. Again, you’ll have to bring everything you need for your day at the beach.

Best Beaches In Costa Rei

Costa Rei is a summer holiday destination for (mostly) locals as well as tourists (Italians and, as of late, more and more foreigners too).

Going to the beach is obviously one of the unmissable things to do in Costa Rei and luckily there are many spots you can pick from and that can be easily reached on foot from the main hubs in Costa Rei, or by car.

Below are my favorite beaches in Costa Rei.

Costa Rei Beach

The main beach in Costa Rei is 12 kilometers (7.4 miles) of powdery, golden sand and crystal-clear waters – a slice of paradise. There are some spots where the water is quite shallow that are better for families with children, and others where, depending on the current, it’s a bit deeper (though still suitable for families).

That being said, Costa Rei beach is not really sheltered from the wind, so you may want to tuck yourself into one of the nearby coves on windy days.

There are limited parking lots available, sprinkled at various access points. Usually, the less availability of parking also means fewer people on that particular spot at the beach. I recommend actually walking to the beach and using one of these lesser-frequented access points if you want a bit of a quieter experience.

Having gone to Costa Rei since I was born, my favorite access point if you are willing to walk is in Via delle Mimose or in Via dei Gigli. If, on the other hand, you prefer driving to the beach, you can go to Via delle Ginestre or Via delle Rose (the last one is a bit more crowded).

Some access points, such as Via delle Rose, allow stroller or wheelchair access to the beach, while others are only small foot trails. 

Scattered along Costa Rei beach, you will find a variety of beach clubs and kiosks selling snacks, meals, and beverages, and you can rent umbrellas and beach equipment. Bagno Chaplin, in Via delle Ginestre, is attached to one of the most popular Costa Rei restaurants (more about that later). You can book a spot there by calling +39 388 626 8671.

From the main Costa Rei Beach you can reach Santa Giusta Beach (more about it below) on a walk along the shore.

Sadly, dogs are not allowed at the main beach in Costa Rei. The best nearby dog-friendly beaches are Tiliguerta – there is a camping site and access to the beach, but you don’t have to be a guest to go, and Murtas, a 20-minute drive north, in the Quirra area. The latter is one of the most beautiful secluded beaches in Sardinia.

My post, The Best Dog-Friendly Beaches In Sardinia, shares more information about beaches in Sardinia where dogs are welcome.

Santa Giusta Beach

Santa Giusta Beach is a favorite of locals and tourists and one of the most popular Costa Rei beaches.

There are two different focal areas here – the crowded iGV Club Santagiusta resort side that has direct access and views of a megalithic rock called Peppino’s Rock (known as Scoglio di Peppino locally), and the other side, which is a small, lovely cove sheltered from the wind.

If you stay on the resort side, be prepared to be surrounded by crowds.

Here you will find the private resort beach where all the guests of the resort go, and a very small portion of the beach where you may struggle to find a spot to lay your towel or place your umbrella. The resort organizes all sorts of activities for its guests, which sometimes means loud music that you may find annoying.

The small cove side is definitely more pleasant, and while space is limited, there is definitely more room to place your umbrella and towel. From this beach, it’s still very easy to access the famous Scoglio di Peppino.

Lifeguards are on duty on the resort side but not on the small cove side, where you will not find anything in terms of services.

Make your way to Santa Giusta by following the signs from Costa Rei directing you to the iGV Santa Giusta resort. The beach has one main, large parking lot that is the only place you can legally park your car. Police patrol the area, and give out a lot of fines to those who don’t park in the designated parking lot. The walk to the beach from the legit parking is only about 500 meters (0.3 miles).

Monte Turno (Castiadas)

Monte Turno is just a bit south of Sant’Elmo—one of the top resorts in Costa Rei. It is a small cove with wonderfully crystal-clear water and unique rock formations standing like sentinels on both sides. That means that Monte Turno is one of the best places to go snorkeling in the area.

Since it is such a spectacular spot, Monte Turno gets fairly crowded during the summer’s peak tourist season. On the other hand, given that it is a cove, it is also protected from the wind— so it’s a great spot to hunker down during one of those wickedly windy days.

There is one beach club here called Iki Beach: it includes a nice restaurant and lounge bar, and it serves snacks and drinks. They also rent sunbeds and umbrellas.

Find your way to Monte Turno by driving south from Costa Rei on SP18 for about 5 kilometers (3.1 miles). There will be a small sign that directs you towards Monte Turno beach: you will have to make a turn so sharp that it’s almost a U-turn. Drive slowly or you may miss the turn.

For more information about this beach and its many perks, head over to my post, An Easy Guide To Cala Monte Turno Beach, Sardinia.

Cala Sinzias (Castiadas)

Located just ten minutes south of Costa Rei by car, Cala Sinzias has powdery white sand and turquoise-blue waters.

Be aware that the water at Cala Sinzias is a bit deeper compared to that in Costa Rei beach. You don’t have to be a strong swimmer necessarily, but you do need to be able to tread water and swim. Having said so, this remains one of the most popular Costa Rei beaches for families with children.

The beach is spotless, there’s almost always a lifeguard on duty, and it’s very easily accessible… that’s the recipe for a very crowded beach. Plus, there are many kiosks that sell snacks, drinks, food, and rent umbrellas and sun beds.

If you are in the mood for a good meal, this is where you will find Maklas and Lido Tamatete, two of the best restaurants and beach clubs in Costa Rei. Maklas is a bit fancier and feels a bit more exclusive – for example, you can rent a whole canopy bed with a bottle of prosecco included.

To get to Cala Sinzias, take the SP18 south from Costa Rei and follow the road until you see the sign directing you to Cala Sinzias. Even though there are multiple access points, parking is quite limited. Don’t leave your car on the main road, though, because police patrols are eager to ticket cars with big fines. If you can’t find a parking spot on the main parking lot by the beach, there is a convenient (paid) parking lot along SP18. From there, it’s a 10 minutes walk to the beach.

My post A Short Guide To Cala Sinzias shares more detailed information about this beach and how to make the most of it.

Cala Pira (Castiadas)

Lying farther south from Cala Sinzias, still only a 15-minute drive from Costa Rei, Cala Pira is a heavenly beach. It has shallow, transparent waters, which makes it a favorite spot for families. Also, there’s a lifeguard on duty— another reason why families love this beach!

Standing tall at one end of Cala Pira is an Aragonese watchtower.

There is a kiosk on site serving light meals, and it also rents out all the beach gear you could possibly need. The (paid) parking lot isn’t very large, and gets easily full in the peak season. However, you really have to watch where you leave your car, as fines are very common here.

Occasionally, dolphins show up in Cala Pira. I can’t say that you will get to see them if you go there – but it is nice to know that these beautiful animals roam the waters of Sardinia.

To get to Cala Pira from Costa Rei, start on the SP18 (the same one you need to follow to get to Cala Sinzias) and continue along it until you spot the sign that directs you to Cala Pira, which will be on your left. You’ll definitely need to drive slowly, as the sign is small and you could easily miss it!

My post, An Easy Guide To Cala Pira Beach, Sardinia, shares even more guidance of this beautiful beach.

Porto Pirastu (Muravera)

This is one of the most secluded Costa Rei beaches. It’s outside the main area of Costa Rei, and the fact that there are no buildings nearby means that there are way less people at the beach.

It’s a gorgeous place: you will find fine, golden sand much like in the rest of Costa Rei, backed by Mediterranean vegetation. Scattered along the shore there are some interesting rock formations.

The Spiaggia di Porto Pirastu beach is not equipped, so you need to bring everything you need for your day – there is no lifeguard on duty are no beach clubs to rent umbrellas or get some food. But that’s a small price to pay to be in a blissfully quiet place.

If you want a drink or something to eat, you can still walk to Tiliguerta – the camping site and dog beach nearby.

To get to Spiaggia di Porto Pirastu you need to drive out of Costa Rei town along via Ichnusa. Once you get to the intersection, turn right onto SP97 and drive past Tiliguerta Camping Village. You will find a forest of eucalyptus trees on your right and a dirt road leading you to the beach a bit before you get to Pizzeria Capo Ferrato.

Portu de S’Illixi and Cala sa Figu (Muravera)

These blissfully peaceful beaches stay relatively uncrowded, even during peak summer season. They are adjacent to each other and aren’t as easily accessed by car.

Getting from the road to the beach takes a bit of a walk over uneven terrain, and the roads aren’t that well marked, so you are guaranteed a more private beach experience – though don’t go expecting them to be empty.

If I had to choose between the two beaches, Cala sa Figu is my favorite. It’s a tiny beach with soft powdery sand and pure, crystal-clear water perfect for snorkeling.

There aren’t any kiosks or vendors at either beach, so there’s nothing to buy and no one to bother you. Also, there’s no lifeguard on duty, and there aren’t any toilets on site either.

To find these two beaches, head north of Costa Rei town along Via Ichnusa, towards Olia Speciosa. After you’ve traveled for about 5 kilometers (3.1 miles), turn right onto the SP97 heading towards Capo Ferrato. It will take approximately 25 minutes to arrive at Portu de S’Illixi and Cala sa Figu.

Best Things To Do In Costa Rei

Enjoy water sports in Costa Rei Sardinia

If you are a water sports aficionado or just want to give it a try for the first time, Costa Rei is the place to do it.

You can obviously bring your kayak or stand-up paddle board to the beach and place in the water – just be careful not to mind other people. Otherwise, most beach clubs along the beach will rent you a tube, kayak, or stand-up paddle board, so you can take to the water and explore the shoreline your way.

In addition, this coast can get quite windy, making Costa Rei beach a veritable paradise for kitesurfing and windsurfing – though not a good place for surfing.

These kitesurfing lessons in Costa Rei are a solid choice if you want to try something different. Lessons for all levels, with experienced instructors and equipment included.

Go diving near Costa Rei

The Mediterranean waters may be on the cooler side of life but there is still incredible marine life to witness. While there isn’t diving in Costa Rei per sé, from here you can access some of the best diving spots in Sardinia.

A popular place for divers is the Scoglio di Sant’Elmo, which is a few minutes south of Costa Rei and isn’t too far from shore. Here you can spot interesting marine life.

Another popular spot is Capo Ferrato, 20 minutes north of Costa Rei. Here you can observe fabulous marine life and reef at 15 meters (49 feet) and 25 meters (82 feet) below sea level.

Yet, the best spots remain Isola di Serpentara and Isola dei Cavoli, which are part of the Protected Marine Area of Capo Carbonara and have an incredible variety of marine life and reef.

If you want to go diving in the area, I recommend getting in touch with Alldive Rei Diving Service. They are located in Cala Sinzias Beach, close to Lido Tamatete.

Tour the nearby islands and beaches

Not too far from Costa Rei lie a few small islands you can check out on a boat trip. The largest island is called Serpentara, which actually appears to be in the shape of a crocodile’s head, and it belongs to the protected marine area of Capo Carbonara.

Discussions with local authorities are currently ongoing to allow small guided groups of tourists on the island. At the moment, boats can get close to Serpentara, but can’t dock.

The other island close to Costa Rei is Isola dei Cavoli. The Sardinian name is Isula de is Cavurus – which translates to “crab island.” Sitting just one kilometer (0.6 miles) away from Capo Carbonara, this island also belongs to the protected marine area of Capo Carbonara. It’s one of the best snorkeling spots in Costa Rei.

Other than marine life, one of the most unique things to see underwater is a statue called the Virgin of the Sea, purposefully placed underwater back in 1979 by the Sardinian artist Pinuccio Sciola.

Boat tours take about four hours in total and go to the island, as well as to multiple beaches in the Villasimius area, such as Punta Molentis and Porto Giunco, as well as Cala Pira.

Boat trips to Isola dei Cavoli take off several times per week from the main Costa Rei beach. The best place to enquire for tours is Bagno Chaplin, in Via delle Ginestre, or Dream Beach Club in Via delle Rose. You can visit them in person or you can also call them at +39 388 626 8671.

If you prefer booking online, there’s this private dinghy snorkeling tour that departs from the beach in Costa Rei. It actually is the most complete tour of the area. It lasts all day and goes to the most impressive spots along the coast, including Porto Pirastu and Cala Sa Figu, the Scoglio di Peppino, Cala Sinzias and Cala Pira and the scenic Venus’ Pools.

There is also this Costa Rei boat trip that goes to all the best spots along the coast. Keep in mind that it departs from Villasimius.

Go running, walking, or hiking

One of the best things to do in Costa Rei is walking, and thankfully, there are plenty of beautiful walks to enjoy here.

My absolute favorite walk is one that goes to a lighthouse in Capo Ferrato. You’ll walk through stunning Mediterranean pine forests and end up at the majestic lighthouse. To get there, drive north along Via Ichnusa, turn right onto SP97 and continue until you reach Capo Ferrato. To get to the pine forest is pretty obvious as it’s right there in plain view.

If you happen to be a runner and are looking for a good running trail, follow Via Ichnusa. Start running north, and you’ll notice that after about the first kilometer (0.6 miles), the road turns into a lovely trail. I recommend going in the early morning or late afternoon so that the weather isn’t too hot – besides, there’s quite a bit of traffic along Via Ichnusa in the afternoon/evening.

For the best hikes, head out to the Sette Fratelli mountain range, accessible from Castiadas. There are lots of trails to explore, and it’s a perfect way to get the heart rate pumping, all while immersing yourself in stunning Mediterranean beauty.

An easy but rewarding hike in Costa Rei includes the trail running from Monte Turno to Cala Pira. Starting in Monte Turno, the trail merges with another one that goes from Cala Pira to Cala Sinzias.

This one is a circular route of just 8 km (about 5 miles) that affords you stunning views of both Cala Sinzias and Cala Pira, including of the Spanish watchtower of Cala Pira, and has just 160 meters (525 feet) of elevation gain. If you walk the entire trail from Monte Turno, you’ll be walking for about 12 km (7.4 miles).

Finally, there are quite a few trails around the Villasimius beaches. My favorite is the very easy trail that goes from the large parking lot of Porto Giunco Beach to the Aragonese watchtower, from where you can admire spectacular views of the beach below. It’s easy to follow and not too challenging – from the parking lot, you can be at the tower in under one hour.

Take in the views from the Casa della Contessa

Speaking of views, for the best views in Costa Rei, meander up the “Casa della Contessa” – also known as the Countess’ House in English – perched atop Monte Nai hill that dominates the beach.

This house is an old, abandoned building that can be seen from pretty much anywhere in Costa Rei – it’s big and white. I have been there countless times (including once last Easter, when we spent the holidays in Costa Rei).

As a child, I’d hike up with my friends and got into all sorts of trouble (including the one time that the guard dogs of a nearby villa started chasing us and we had to take off our flip flops to run faster, on a dirt road).

I have seen it change and get more and more damaged with time, and it actually saddens me that nobody has ever claimed it or tried to restore it.

There are several legends about this house. The most popular one is that the countess left during a fire and hid precious treasures within the walls.

Lots of people have tried to find the treasure and have vandalized the property to do so. That’s quite sad, as this beautiful old structure has been defaced and damaged, but there have been no reports of a treasure being found.

The house is in a complete state of despair – I really do not recommend going there with children as there’s way too much stuff that could be dangerous for them, and if you decide to venture inside the abandoned property, I recommend avoiding getting inside the actual house as you never know it may collapse.

Admire sunrise and sunset in Costa Rei

Costa Rei is on the eastern coast of Sardinia, which means it’s not a good place to be if you are hoping to catch a beautiful sunset.

However, if you set your alarm early and are willing to yank yourself out of bed in the wee hours of the morning, you can expect stunning sunrises from the beach.

If you’re dying to see a sunset, drive south towards Monte Turno. For an even more epic sunset, you’ll have to drive around 45 minutes from Costa Rei towards Baccu Mandara. While it does take a while to get there, it’s worth seeing those peaches and purples unfurl against the Sardinian sky.

Explore the Pools of Sarrabus and Tulinu Reserve

One of the unmissable things to do in Costa Rei for birdwatchers is to go to the Pools of Sarrabus.

Situated not too far from Costa Rei, in proximity to the small towns of Muravera and Villaputzu (which are separated by the Flumendosa river, one of the longest in Sardinia), this wetland is a lagoon complex that is home to stunningly diverse wildlife, and the perfect place to go bird watching.

Here, you will find about ten ponds of different sizes that are home to incredible biodiversity. The pools of Villaputzu are located towards the north of the river, and go all the way to Quirra, where a military base is located. The pools to the south of the river are closer to Muravera, and they are home to sand dunes and a pine forest.

My favorite pools are San Giovanni, which is close to the mouth of the Flumendosa river and where coots, moorhens, mallards, and little grebes live.

I also recommend seeing Le Saline pool, a salt pan home to an Aragonese watchtower (one of the many found along the coast in Sardinia). This is the best spot to visit for chances of seeing pink flamingos.

Finally, there are also Colostrai and Feraxi, the most famous pools home of various species of birds, including herons, ducks, black-winged stilts, egrets, kingfishers, swamphens, pink flamingos as well as white storks and oystercatchers.

I recommend going there early in the morning or right before sunset, as you’ll likely see more birds that way.

To find the Colostrai and Feraxi ponds, take SP18 to Olia Speciosa and from there follow the SS125 towards Muravera. Follow the signs to San Priamo and drive through the city. You will reach an intersection with the Strada Comunale Torre delle Saline, and have to turn right. Follow the signs that will point you towards Torre Salinas. You will see the Saline pond on your left, and if you turn right, you can drive all the way to Colostrai.

Another even lesser-known spot you may want to visit from Costa Rei is the Tulinu Reserve. In this case, I wholeheartedly recommend joining a guided tour as there’s quite a bit of off-roading to do, and you will need a 4-wheel drive as well as an expert guide who knows where to go.

You will enjoy magnificent views of the Sette Fratelli mountain range, and short, easy walks in the Tulinu Private Reserve.

Visit Castiadas Prison

Visiting Castiadas Prison is a perfect rainy day activity. The Colonia Penale di Castiadas is located inland from Costa Rei, surrounded by fields and low hills. It was established in 1875 as an agricultural penal colony, where inmates worked the land, reclaimed marshes, and helped shape the rural landscape you see today.

Unlike many prisons, this one functioned almost like a self-sufficient village. Prisoners lived in small housing units, farmed crops, and raised livestock under supervision. Conditions were harsh, especially in the early years, with malaria common in the area before reclamation works improved sanitation.

The prison closed in 1956 and has since been partially restored. Guided tours of the prison are available daily in Italian or English. On the tour, you’ll visit the cells, the courtyards, dormitories, workshops, and the backyard areas. There is a small admission fee, and this includes a guided tour.

Castiadas Prison is just a 15-minute drive from the main hub in Costa Rei. Follow the road back to Cagliari, but rather than getting on the SS125, continue straight for just a few minutes until you come to a small square, where you’ll see the prison.

Attend the festivals in Costa Rei

While Costa Rei doesn’t actually host any festivals, the nearby town of Muravera has a couple each year.

My favorite is the Citrus Festival, Sagra degli Agrumi, in which the town celebrates the delectable citrus fruits produced in the region. It takes place each year in March or April, so you can attend if you are visiting Sardinia in spring. It’s a festive occasion and the perfect excuse to gorge yourself on everything citrus!

Another popular festival is the Muravera Carnival, which can get pretty rowdy! It happens each year in August, and you’ll see tons of masks that come from around Sardinia, including the famous Mamuthones of Mamoiada, and parades. The city becomes a throbbing mass of singing, dancing, and celebration.

Where To Stay In Costa Rei Sardinia

Costa Rei is one of the best places to stay in Sardinia for a beach holiday, and it has a wide range of accommodation, but it’s important to understand how the area works before you book a place to stay.

As I have said before, there’s no real town center — places to stay in Costa Rei are spread along the coast in small clusters. Most people choose based on proximity to the beach rather than location within a “town”.

Hotels vs holiday rentals

Most people who travel to Costa Rei stay in holiday rentals, which are widely available and often the most practical option — especially for longer stays or families.

That said, there are also:

• camping sites, popular with families and those traveling with pets
• resorts and hotels, including a few all-inclusive options right by the beach

This is where to stay if you prefer a resort-style stay:

• Free Beach Resort is a well-known family-friendly option with direct beach access
• La Villa del Re is a quieter, adults-oriented choice with a more upscale feel

Best areas to stay in Costa Rei

Rather than distinct neighborhoods, Costa Rei is made up of small areas along the coast. In practice, what matters is:

• how close you are to the beach
• whether you have restaurants or shops within walking distance

If you want more convenience, look for accommodation in areas with a few services nearby. Otherwise, expect to drive for most things.

My post Where To Stay In Costa Rei lists several excellent accommodation options in the area and gives a good overview of the various areas.

Costa Rei vs. Villasimius

A common question I get from readers is which one is better — Costa Rei or Villasimius.

My answer is always the same: it depends on what you are looking for.

While the beaches are excellent in both, the overall atmosphere is quite different.

Costa Rei

Costa Rei is best described as a coastal holiday area rather than a proper town. Many people from Cagliari and other parts of Sardinia — my family included — own a second home here and spend their summers by the sea.

Because of that, it can feel touristy at first glance, but in reality, a large share of the people you’ll see are locals on holiday.

In the winter, very few people live here. From May onwards, it gradually comes to life as holiday homes open and seasonal businesses start operating.

You’ll find shops, small markets, and everything you need for a comfortable stay, but you won’t get the feel of a Sardinian town. There are a couple of small squares, but no real center.

The upside is that the beach is often within walking distance, so if you stay in the right spot, you may not need a car unless you want to explore further.

Villasimius

Villasimius, on the other hand, is a proper small town, with around 3,000 residents year-round. Like Costa Rei, it gets much busier in summer, with both tourists and Sardinians coming for the holidays.

What makes the difference is that Villasimius has a lively town center, with restaurants, bars, shops, and a more social atmosphere in the evenings. It’s the kind of place where you go out for a walk after dinner.

Accommodation in Villasimius is just as varied as it is in Costa Rei: you’ll find beach resorts with direct access to the sea, but also many options in and around the town. If you stay in town, you’ll usually need a car to reach the beaches.

Which one should you choose?

It really comes down to the kind of trip you want:

• Choose Costa Rei if your priority is easy beach access, a quieter setting, and a more laid-back pace
• Choose Villasimius if you want a small town atmosphere, more restaurants, and something to do in the evenings

The good news is that you don’t have to commit too much. The two are close enough that you can easily combine them — stay in one and visit the other for dinner or a day at the beach.

When To Visit Costa Rei

Costa Rei is a very seasonal holiday destination, and your experience will change a lot depending on when you go.

There isn’t a bad time to visit, but you need to know what to expect — especially outside the summer months.

Summer (June to August)

This is peak season in Costa Rei. The weather is hot, the sea is at its best, and everything is open — restaurants, beach kiosks, shops, and services.

It’s also the busiest time of year. July and August in particular can get crowded, especially around the most popular stretches of beach.

If you’re visiting in summer, book accommodation well in advance and expect higher prices.

September and October (best time to visit)

This is, in my opinion, the best time to visit Costa Rei. The sea is still warm, the weather is generally excellent, but the crowds start to disappear. By mid to late September, the atmosphere becomes much more relaxed.

Even in October, you can often enjoy warm, sunny days — perfect for long walks on the beach and quieter swims. Depending on the year, October is still a good time to swim. Just keep in mind that days are much shorter.

Winter (November to March)

During the winter months, Costa Rei feels almost empty.

All tourist businesses close — including shops, restaurants, and even grocery stores. If you stay here, you’ll need to rely on nearby villages like Villasimius, Olia Speciosa or Muravera for basic supplies, or stock up in Cagliari.

It can feel a bit stark, but that’s also part of the appeal.

This is actually one of my favorite times to visit. I come here for long walks by the sea, with hardly anyone around, or just to sit on the beach with a book. It’s a completely different experience from summer — quieter, slower, and very local.

Spring (April to May)

Spring is a transition period. The weather starts to improve, and by May, Costa Rei begins to come back to life. Seasonal businesses reopen, and weekends can feel surprisingly lively, especially with locals coming from Cagliari.

It’s not quite beach season yet, but it’s a good time to visit if you want mild weather and fewer people.

Do You Need A Car In Costa Rei?

In most cases, yes — you will need a car in Costa Rei. Oftentimes, when I go there, I park my car and forget about driving for a few days. But then, I am not a first-time visitor eager to explore.

Costa Rei is not a compact destination. It stretches along several kilometres of coastline, with accommodation, restaurants, and services spread out in small clusters rather than concentrated in one place.

The only public transport here is the bus from Cagliari that goes all the way to Muravera, and occasionally there’s a shuttle that takes visitors to Villasimius at night.

If you stay in a well-located property close to the beach and a few restaurants, you can manage short stays without driving much. You’ll be able to walk to the beach and maybe go out for dinner nearby.

However, the moment you want to:

• visit different beaches (for example, towards Capo Ferrato or one of the Villasimius beaches)
• go out for dinner in a different area (i.e., Villasimius)
• do a grocery run
• visit nearby places like Colostrai Pond or the Castiadas Prison

You’ll need a car.

Taxis are not a reliable alternative, and ride-sharing services and taxis are essentially non-existent in this part of Sardinia.

If you want flexibility and an easier trip overall, I recommend renting a car in Cagliari.

My recommended company for car rental is Discover Cars. It’s a comparison site that helps you pick the best car for your budget and needs.

Practical Information For Costa Rei

Best Costa Rei restaurants and bars

Unfortunately, eating options in Costa Rei Sardinia are a little on the slim side. I have eaten at almost all Costa Rei restaurants, and here are my top recommendations:

S’Ollastinu – Located inside the recently opened Cala Sinzias Resort, this contemporary cuisine restaurant has a strong focus on the use of local and seasonal ingredients. Their version of fregola is absolutely delicious. The wine list is extensive and the service impeccable. It’s one of my favorite restaurants in Sardinia.

Chaplin – An inexpensive restaurant close to the beach. I love their pasta dishes, such as spaghetti with vongole and fregola con arselle, and they have very good calamari. Booking in advance is usually a good idea in the tourist high season.

Sa Cardiga e Su Pisci – Hands down the best restaurant in Costa Rei. They focus on locally-sourced ingredients with a modern twist. However, expect things to be on the expensive side. Reservations are highly recommended.

Rey Burger – Located in Piazza Sardegna, this is one of the most popular budget restaurants in Costa Rei. You’ll find a good selection of pizzas and great burgers, as well as pasta dishes and steaks. Make sure you reserve a table in advance as it’s very popular.

PIZZERIA CAPO FERRATO – Located just on the other side of Porto Pirastu Beach, this is a lovely pizzeria that is very beloved by locals and incredibly budget-friendly. My parents go there every Saturday during the summer! Make sure to make reservations as it’s popular.

Lido Tamatete – Situated right on the beach of Cala Sinzias, Lido Tamatete is a seafood restaurant that has positively divine desserts. Yes, it is expensive, but it’s totally worth it. Book in advance.

Pizzeria Su Tostoini – One of the most budget-friendly options in Costa Rei. It’s right at the intersection on the way to Villasimius. Reservations are not accepted here, so it’s not exactly the best place for large group dining.

I Menhirs – This restaurant, located in Olia Speciosa, has a fantastic menu geared towards local specialties of Sardinia and gastronomic delights. A full meal ranges from €40 to €60, and booking in advance is recommended.

Nou – A more recent addition to the selection of restaurants in Costa Rei, Nou is a nice place if you prefer modern cuisine. You will find a selection of seafood and meat dishes and lots of pasta. There’s a great wine selection. It’s not cheap.

La Bottega Pane e Vino – The perfect spot for a little wine and cheese plate. They have a great selection of international Italian and Sardinian wines, and lately they have started offering more elaborate dishes too. Ask for the daily specials.

La Cantinetta – This small enoteca located in Piazza Italia is the perfect place to try wines from the most famous Sardinian wineries. You can accompany your wine with a nice selection of small appetizers too.

Once in Costa Rei, you’ll spot other restaurants too. Let’s say I tried them and they are not making this list. There’s a good reason for that.

Where to buy groceries in Costa Rei Sardinia

Grocery stores are sprinkled throughout Costa Rei. There are three in the main village. The best quality fruits and vegetables are found at the greengrocer in Piazza Sardegna. There is also a butcher and a fishmonger situated right next to the Despar Market located in Via Colombo.

My favorite way to pick up fresh produce in Costa Rei is at the little farm stands that sell their own farm-fresh products, including eggs. The best farm stands are around the area of San Pietro.

To get there, drive south of Costa Rei town towards Cala Sinzias, and make a right on SP98, at the big intersection, then immediately turn left on the first road. This is a little road where you will find signs broadcasting what the stands are selling.

Local services and shops in Costa Rei

Blessedly, Costa Rei has lots of shops to make your holiday a comfortable one. There is only one bank, though, Banco di Sardegna, which is located at Olia Speciosa. There’s also a post office next to it.

If you are on the hunt for an ATM, you’ll find them sprinkled along the main road, next to the supermarkets – and there’s a Banco di Sardegna ATM in Piazza Madonna di Bonaria, where the only church in Costa Rei is located.

Piazza Madonna di Bonaria is also where you’ll find a Guardia Medica (doctor on duty).

There is a beauty salon and hairdresser in Piazza Italia, and one on Via Ichnusa. Two pharmacies are located in exactly the same areas. A veterinarian is located in Muravera: the clinic is in Via Roma.

I also wanted to mention that the local police station, Carabinieri, is situated on the northern side of the resort, close to the church. If you need to call the police, their number is +39 070 991 6112.

Final (VERY IMPORTANT) Note

Please do not take sand or shells from the beach. It is forbidden to do so! Also, when you take starfish from the water, you are killing them. Please leave the shells and marine life alone, or you could face fines.

FAQs on Costa Rei

Final Thoughts on Costa Rei

As a local, let me stress that Costa Rei is not a place you visit for a packed itinerary. You come here for the sea — and in that sense, it delivers exactly what it promises.

The coastline is long, sandy, and easy to enjoy. Days fall into a simple rhythm, and once you settle into it, it’s hard not to slow down. That’s what I love the most about it.

It does require a bit of planning. The area is spread out, and having a car makes a big difference if you want to move around or explore nearby places like the beaches of Villasimius.

If you arrive with the right expectations, Costa Rei is a very easy place to enjoy. It’s relaxed, low-key, and built around the beach — and for many travelers, that’s exactly what’s special about it.

Further Readings

Make sure to read my other posts about Sardinia for more ideas and planning tips:

• Best Beaches In Sardinia
• Unmissable Things To Do In Sardinia
• Things To Do In Cagliari, Sardinia