Palau is a small beach town located in northern Sardinia, a 50-minute drive north of Olbia and overlooking the beautiful Maddalena Archipelago (and you should not confuse it with the Palau in the Pacific).
We locals know this small Sardinian mostly for its port, from where you can catch the ferry to La Maddalena island. I have been there countless times on my way to La Maddalena. But being a curious traveler and wanting to know my island better, of course, I took the time to explore Palau and its surroundings.
In fact, Palau has several things to offer to curious visitors, and it’s a great base to explore northeastern Sardinia, with interesting attractions, some of the best beaches of northern Sardinia, and it’s easy to explore.
In this guide, I will show you everything you need to know about Palau, Sardinia, what to do in Palau, and the most beautiful beaches in the area.
Quick Overview of Palau, Sardinia
Palau is a solid week-long base in north-east Sardinia, especially if you want easy access to the Maddalena Archipelago, the beaches of northeastern Sardinia, and day trips around Gallura and the Emerald Coast.
Here’s a quick overview that will help you plan your holiday in Palau:
- Best for: island-hopping, beaches, wind sports, and short day trips.
- Ideal stay: 5–7 nights if you’ll explore the Maddalena Archipelago and the coast around it.
- Don’t expect: a big historic old town (Palau is more functional than pretty).
- You’ll need: a car for most beaches and inland day trips.
- Best day trip: La Maddalena and Caprera.
- Best “mix it up” trip: inland Gallura villages and viewpoints.
Can’t decide how long to stay in Sardinia? Head over to my post How Many Days Should You Stay In Sardinia? for more guidance.
Palau As A Base: Who It Suits (And Who It Doesn’t)
Stay in Palau for a week if you want a practical base with:
- quick access to the La Maddalena ferries
- lots of beaches within short drives
- the option to add Porto Pollo and coastal viewpoints on windier days
- easy day trips around the Gallura area
Palau is less ideal if you’re looking for:
- a “cute” old town where you’ll spend your evenings strolling
- a nightlife destination
- a walk-everywhere trip without a car
What To Do In Palau, Sardinia
A bit of an underdog and overlooked by tourists heading to La Maddalena Archipelago, Palau has several natural sites, historical buildings, and archaeological sites nearby. Here are the best things to do in Palau.
Check out the Roccia dell’Orso (The Bear Rock)
Also known as Capo d’Orso, this is a massive rock that was eroded by the wind into a bear-like shape. It is a natural work of art, from which you can enjoy views of the Sardinian coast and the Maddalena Archipelago.
Writer and Homer scholar Victor Bérard suggests that Capo d’Orso is the only place in the Mediterranean that can be identified as the “land of the Laestrygonians”. These are the giant cannibals mentioned in the 10th book of the Odyssey, the ones who defeated Ulysses and forced him to escape.
Capo d’Orso is just 5 km (3.1 miles) from Palau. You can get there by a panoramic trail where the last bit is a steep but rewarding uphill. The trail also passes by the fort of Capo d’Orso, one of the many 18th century military fortifications found near Palau.
You can visit the Roccia dell’Orso throughout the year for a small fee, but for visits between November and March, you have to book ahead by sending a WhatsApp message to +393470913032.
Visit the Fortress of Mount Altura
The coastal location of Palau led to the construction of several fortresses between the 18th and 19th centuries. One of the most visited is the Fortress of Monte Altura, which was built by the Italian army between 1887 and 1889, and was part of a wider defensive system designed to protect the Maddalena Archipelago and control access to the Strait of Bonifacio.
The structure blends into the landscape, with thick granite walls, underground tunnels, and artillery positions designed to be both defensive and discreet.
From the outside, Monte Altura Fortress blends with the surrounding rock, while the interior reveals a complex network of rooms once used by soldiers stationed here. The fortress has a central staircase, which connects the building’s two floors.
Although you can’t visit many of the interior rooms, the fortress remains a fascinating place, especially for history buffs.
You can visit the Mount Altura Fortress throughout the year for a small fee, which includes a 45-minute guided tour, but for visits between November and March, you have to book ahead by sending a WhatsApp message to +393470913032. You can also get a combined ticket that grants you access to the fortress and the Roccia dell’Orso.
Go to the Li Mizzani Giants’ Tomb
Li Mizzani Giant’s Tomb is a funerary monument left by the Nuragic civilization in the Bronze Age. In the past, it was thought that the tomb hosted gigantic creatures. Actually, Sardinian Giants’ Tombs are collective burial sites, which are a precious source of information on the nuragic civilization.
The structure is built from large granite blocks arranged in a semi-circular shape, with a central stele marking the entrance to the burial chamber. Its scale and layout reflect the Nuragic civilisation’s strong connection to ritual, community, and the landscape. The tomb was likely used for ceremonial purposes linked to ancestor worship.
This site has a rectangular corridor and a 3-meter (9.8 feet) high monolithic column. From above, researchers noted that the tomb has a shape very similar to the head of a bull, an animal revered by the nuragic people as a symbol of strength.
The archeological site, surrounded by a spectacular landscape, is easily accessible from Palau and can be visited independently.
Make sure to read my post Who Were The Giants Of Sardinia?
Visit La Maddalena Archipelago
Once in Palau, don’t miss the opportunity to visit the beautiful archipelago of La Maddalena. This is one of the many islands of Sardinia, and incredibly scenic.
You have two ways of visiting. Let me explain everything you need to know.
How to visit La Maddalena independently
During the summer months, regular ferries leave from the harbor of Palau to La Maddalena every 15 minutes, for a pleasant 4-km crossing during which you can admire the coastline of the island and archipelago.
You will need a car to explore La Maddalena.
The island is famous for its beautiful beaches, such as the Capucchia du Purpu Beach, Bassa Trinità, and Cala Spalamatore. It’s also where the only town of La Maddalena Archipelago (La Maddalena Town) is located, and where virtually all people in La Maddalena live.
There’s a stunning sunset spot called Punta Tegge, where you can grab a drink from a small kiosk and enjoy the sunset while sitting on the rocks. You can also get in the water, but there are lots of sea urchins, so bring your rock shoes, otherwise getting out is really difficult.
La Maddalena is also connected to Caprera via a bridge. Caprera is a much more natural and wild island with wonderful beaches such as Cala Napoletana, Spiaggia del Relitto, and Cala Portese, and hiking trails – my favorite is the one to Cala Coticcio, one of Sardinia’s most famous protected beaches.
My post, A Useful Guide To La Maddalena, shares more activities and tips for visiting.
Boat tours of the Maddalena Archipelago from Palau
Alternatively, you can book a boat excursion departing from Palau, to see the islands that make up the La Maddalena Archipelago.
Boat excursions stop at the various beaches, among which the gorgeous Cala Soraya and Cala Granara in Spargi, and Budelli Island (home of the famous pink beach, where nobody, however, can disembark), allowing you to dive into the crystal clear waters.
The price of boat trips varies depending on what’s included, and how big the boat is (usually the larger boats that carry more people are cheaper). Below are two excellent options:
La Maddalena: Island-Hopping Sailing Tour with Lunch – one of the most expensive options, it’s a fabulous tour to the best beaches of the La Maddalena Archipelago.
From Palau: La Maddalena Archipelago Full-Day Boat Tour – a more budget friendly option, but keep in mind you’ll be traveling on a much larger boat so there will be many people on the tour.
Don’t forget to also read my post, The Best Boat Tours To La Maddalena, for even more options.
Hike to Talmone Battery
The hike to Talmone Battery departs from Costa Serena (one of the most popular beaches in Palau), near the road between Palau and Porto Pollo, and follows a clearly marked path through Mediterranean scrub and granite formations.
The hike is easy to moderate, suitable for most walkers with basic fitness, and takes around 30–45 minutes each way, depending on pace. Along the route, you’ll have wide views over the Maddalena Archipelago and the Strait of Bonifacio, with frequent spots to stop and take photos.
At the end of the trail, the remains of the early 20th-century coastal battery come into view, but much of this has been reclaimed by nature.
The hike is best done in late spring or early autumn, or early in the morning during summer, to avoid the heat. You will need to wear hiking shoes. At the end of the hike, you can enjoy a swim in the clear waters of Costa Serena.
Go for a walk in Porto Rafael
To be fair, I am not the biggest fan of the beaches in Porto Rafael, but this small hamlet a short drive from Palau is a popular hub for luxury travelers.
Porto Rafael was built in the 1960s, designed as a private retreat rather than a resort, which gives it a very different feel from many coastal developments in northern Sardinia.
Here you’ll see low-rise buildings, pastel-coloured houses, and quiet lanes, all set against views of the Maddalena Archipelago. There’s no real town center in the traditional sense, but a small piazza and marina area where people gather in the evening.
It’s nice to go there for a sunset stroll to check out the lovely gardens, the stunning villas, and sip a delicious cocktail in one of the many bars.
Best Beaches In Palau, Sardinia
Palau is home to some of the most scenic beaches in Sardinia, where you can relax and swim in the crystal clear emerald sea of Sardinia. Here are some of my favorites.
La Sciumara
This is my favorite beach in Palau. It has fine golden sand and shallow waters, which make it ideal for families with children. The green Mediterranean scrub, soft sand, and clear sea create a beautiful landscape where you can relax all day.
The beach also overlooks the island of La Maddalena: you can see it in the distance.
La Sciumara is a short drive from Palau. Once there, you will find lots of parking spaces, as well as a kiosk for food and drinks, and a beach club where you can rent umbrellas and loungers.
Cala di Trana
This is one of the most beautiful beaches in the area, just a 10-minute drive north of Palau on the way to Porto Pollo. Protected from the wind by the granite rock formations and surrounded by the typical Mediterranean scrub, Cala di Trana features emerald waters and soft sand mixed with pebbles. It’s one of the best snorkeling spots near Palau.
The beach is completely free to access, and there’s enough parking in the area. It’s a short walk to get to the beach. However, there isn’t anything in terms of services: you’ll have to bring your umbrella for shade, and your own food and drinks.
Cala Martinella
Cala Martinella is a small beach just a 15-minute drive from Palau.
It has turquoise, clear, and shallow water, white sand mixed with pebbles and rock formations around it, and it’s surrounded by Mediterranean vegetation. It’s a rather wild beach, more secluded compared to many others in the area, which means not as crowded.
Bring with you everything you need for a comfortable stay (including water for the day and food), as the beach does not have any services or equipment for rent.
Cala Capra
This is a small, scenic cove located on the Capo d’Orso peninsula, just a 12-minute drive from Palau. Surrounded by granite rocks and Mediterranean scrub, the beach feels more secluded compared to the more easily accessible beaches closer to town. However, it’s still very easy to reach.
The beach, which is nicely sheltered, is a mix of sand and rocks, with clear water that makes it particularly suitable for snorkeling (there’s excellent underwater visibility if there’s no wind). The seabed drops fairly quickly.
Cala Capra is free to access, and there’s nearby parking. However, there are no kiosks or beach clubs at this beach, so you’ll have to bring an umbrella for shade, as well as food and drinks for the day.
Costa Serena
Just a 10-minute drive from Palau, on the way to Porto Pollo, Costa Serena is a series of small coves and rocky inlets, and a really pristine place. This white, medium-grain sand beach is beautifully surrounded by Mediterranean scrub and has incredibly clear waters, which are ideal for swimming and snorkeling on calm days.
It’s a truly pristine place, but it can get crowded. However, if you walk towards the end of the beach on either side, you will find plenty of space to lay your towel and place your umbrella. Keep in mind that facilities at this beach are minimal, so bring your umbrella, food and drinks for the day.
Porto Pollo
Known locally as Portu Puddu, Porto Pollo is a stunning bay located about halfway between Palau and Santa Teresa di Gallura. The bay has fine white sand, clear, shallow turquoise waters (thus being perfect for families with children) and thick Mediterranean scrub.
Together with Arenaria beach, Porto Pollo creates an isthmus that joins mainland to the small Isola dei Gabbiani (which locals refer to as Isuledda). This part of Sardinia is almost constantly exposed to the wind. It is perfect for water sports such as wind surfing and kite surfing.
You’ll find plenty of parking spaces, a beach club to rent umbrellas and loungers, and disabled access too.
7-day Palau Itinerary
This itinerary is simple, realistic, and will allow you to make the most of this part of Sardinia with no stress:
- Day 1: Get to Palau, settle in, go to a beach close to town.
- Day 2: La Maddalena Archipelago boat tour.
- Day 3: Ferry to La Maddalena, then go to Caprera (hike to Cala Coticcio or Cala Brigantina, visit one of the other coves or the Garibaldi Compendium).
- Day 4: One of the beaches near Palau.
- Day 5: Windy-day option: Porto Pollo area for scenery and water sports.
- Day 6: Inland Gallura day trip – Santa Teresa di Gallura, Arzachena, archaeological sites, evening stroll in Porto Cervo or San Pantaleo in the Emerald Coast.
- Day 7: “Best-of repeat” day: favorite beach + sunset viewpoint.
Quick Planning Table
| Place | Best for | Car needed | Time needed | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Palau town/harbor | logistics, ferries, evenings | No | 1–2 hrs | functional base |
| La Maddalena | beaches + island scenery | Yes if you want to explore independently, no if you are doing a boat tour | full day | easiest day trip (if you do a boat tour) |
| Caprera | nature + coves | Yes | full day | lots of hikes to beaches |
| Porto Pollo | wind + views | Yes | half/full day | good when breezy |
| Nearby beaches | swimming + snorkelling | Usually yes | half/full day | they can be crowded |
Best Time To Visit Palau, Sardinia
Palau is a very popular summer destination in Sardinia, and while you can find things to do in other seasons, the best time to visit is between the end of May and the end of September. That’s when days are longer, and the hot temperature allows you to enjoy the many beaches and water activities. It’s also the best time to swim in Sardinia.
With this in mind, you may still want to avoid visiting between mid-July and the end of August, as this is peak season in Sardinia, which means the price of flights and ferries will be much higher, as well as that of hotels, and the beaches will be more crowded.
My post When To Visit Sardinia? will help you pick the best time for your trip.
Where To Stay In Palau
Palau is where to stay in Sardinia if you want to explore the northeasteren coast and have easy access to La Maddalena Archipelago. Here, you can find hotels, as well as B&Bs and apartments for rent, and there really is something for any budget and travel needs.
These are my favorite places to stay in Palau, Sardinia:
- Tenuta Petra Manna – family-run bed and breakfast in the countryside of Palau. There’s a gorgeous garden to relax in the evening.
- Hotel Palau – great beach resort with comfortable rooms, a pool, a wellness center, a bar, and a restaurant. Perfect place to stay for families, as you’ll have direct access to a private beach.
- Gli Ulivi – La Zirichelta – nice holiday home perfect for a small family.
- Palau City Hotel – nice small hotel close to the town center, very affordable.
Best Restaurants In Palau, Sardinia
There are many things to do in Palau, and while you are there, you should also explore local food, which remains firmly rooted in the Gallura tradition. Despite being a coastal town, the traditional cuisine in Palau reflects its inland heritage as much as its proximity to the sea.
These are some dishes you should try during your time in Palau, Sardinia:
- Zuppa gallurese – Gallura soup, though it’s not really a soup. It’s made with bread, broth, and cheese.
- Li fiuritti – kind of handmade tagliatelle.
- Li pan’a fitti – a dish based on spianata or leftover bread boiled in meat broth and seasoned with local olive oil, pecorino, parsley, and cinnamon.
- Porcetto – roast suckling pig, it’s actually found anywhere in Sardinia.
- Faa e lardu – broad beans cooked with lard and wild fennel.
- Acciuleddi – fried dough coated in honey.
Grilled seafood is also easily available in all local restaurants.
These are my favorite restaurants in Palau:
- Il Paguro – a Bib Gourmand Michelin restaurant, it serves excellent fish and seafood dishes.
- Petra Bianca – one of the best agriturismo in the area.
- Ristorante Dal Porticciolo – it specializes in meat and fish dishes.
- Trattoria il Ghiottone – it serves some excellent traditional local dishes.
How To Get To Palau, Sardinia
In general, I recommend renting a car for your trip to Sardinia – even more so in an area such as Palau, where you will want to do some beach hopping.
The nearest airport is Olbia Costa Smeralda. You can rent a car here, and then take the State Road SS 125 road towards Arzachena – Palau, and then turn right at the Palau – Santa Teresa junction. It should take you around 50 minutes to get there.
My Guide To Renting A Car In Olbia explains the secrets to landing a good deal on car rental. My recommended car rental booking site is Discover Cars – it’s what I use for car rental anywhere in the world. I also have a post on How To Drive In Sardinia that you will find useful.
If you’d rather travel by public transportation, you can take Bus 601 from Olbia city center. It goes all the way to Santa Teresa Gallura and stops in Palau too.
I have a guide on How To Get Around Sardinia, which you may want to read for more information on the most convenient ways of getting around the island.
FAQs on Palau
Yes, Palau is worth visiting if your priority is convenience for La Maddalena and the beaches of northeastern Sardinia. It’s one of the most practical bases in this part of the island.
Here are some of the best things to do in Palau:
Visit the beaches: La Sciumara, Spiaggia dell’Isolotto, Costa Serena, Porto Pollo.
Check out historical buildings: Fortress of Monte Altura, Talmone military battery.
Take a boat tour around La Maddalena Archipelago.
Palau works well for a week if you plan to explore La Maddalena, Caprera, and go on day trips around Gallura.
For a week’s stay, yes. You can manage the ferry to La Maddalena on foot, and you don’t need a car if you just go on a boat tour around the Maddalena Archipelago. However, most beaches and day trips are much easier with a car.
It depends.
You can take the ferry as a foot passenger and explore La Maddalena town on foot, but if you don’t want to rent a car, you are better off with a boat excursion for beach stops.
There are many gorgeous beaches near Palau. La Sciumara and Cala di Trana are both impressive.
Palau is a good base for both families and couples.
For families, it’s a practical choice: the town is compact, services are easy to reach, and many sandy beaches with shallow waters (that suit children) are within short drives. There are regular departures of boat trips to the La Maddalena Archipelago. Having a car is definitely a good idea.
For couples, Palau is best if you’re looking for rather than a romantic old town. While the town isn’t much to write home about, the surrounding area offers beautiful coves, scenic viewpoints, sunset spots, and boat excursions. It also pairs nicely with short trips to Caprera or inland Gallura villages.
Final Remarks
Let me be clear: Palau as a town itself is honestly nothing special. That’s not why you should go. But, as a base to explore northeastern Sardinia, it is very convenient. From there, you can easily reach the La Maddalena Archipelago, Caprera, and the beaches of northern Gallura.
You can create a fun itinerary that mixes days at the beach, boat trips, coastal walks, and excursions to small towns in Gallura, such as Santa Teresa Gallura or Arzachena.
The great news is that there are some excellent accommodation options for all budgets, and with such easy road and ferry connections to other fun places, you are bound to have a great vacation.
Recommended Readings
Pin It For Later!
Hello Teresa, they are still special places now, although definitely more developed!
Back in 1980 we were stationed in La Maddelena but we lived in Palau. I loved it.
It’s a beautiful place, the bakery woke me every morning with the delicious aroma of fresh bread. I would gather up my daughter and walk to the pier, stopping for crusty rolls along the way. The shopkeepers were so kind, helping me as I tried to learn the language. The restaurants had the most amazing food. It was wonderful
Hello Maja, thank you for leaving a comment. It would help me if you told me what time of year / when in the summer you will be visiting. I think San Teodoro is probably ideal. Otherwise, you could move to La Maddalena island. You would need the car to move around the island, and do boat tours and hikes to get to beaches, but it’s simply magnificent! I have written extensively on La Maddalena, so you will have plenty of info to plan your visit. I also have quite a bit of posts about San Teodoro and the surroundings.
We are staying in Golf Aranci for 5 nights and then wanted to stay somewhere else for 3 nights, can you suggest and area? We will have a car and will be flying out of Olbia. As we are in the country side for the first 5 days it would be nice to be in a town close to the beach. Any suggestions welcome. Thank you.
Any of the options mentioned in this post is good. June is already peak season in Sardinia so I encourage you to book now if you haven’t already, and don’t expect super cheap prices!
Hi Claudia,
I want to book the recommended boat tour (catamaran) from Palau in June. Where would you recommend staying on a budget – we have a hire car so does not need to be in the city if we can park close by to where the boat departs? Thank you for your blog!