Visiting Asinara National Park: Sardinia’s Most Overlooked Island

Of all the islands in Sardinia, Asinara is one of my favorites.

Located off the northwestern coast of Sardinia, Asinara is a small island of just 52 square kilometers that today forms Asinara National Park — one of Sardinia’s most remarkable protected areas, as well as a marine reserve and wildlife sanctuary.

I’ve visited Asinara several times over the years — independently and on guided visits, as a day trip and overnight, departing both from Stintino and Porto Torres — and I keep going back because it feels completely different from the rest of Sardinia. It’s quieter, wilder, and far less developed than many visitors expect.

A trip to northern Sardinia isn’t complete without at least considering Asinara. Most international visitors know about La Maddalena, but Asinara offers a completely different experience: fewer crowds, protected landscapes, clear water, hiking trails, free-roaming animals, and a fascinating history shaped by decades of isolation.

In this guide, I explain exactly how to visit Asinara National Park, the best way to explore it, what to see, whether it’s worth staying overnight, and everything else you need to know to plan your trip.

Quick Answer: Is Asinara Worth Visiting?

Yes — I think Asinara is absolutely worth visiting, and it’s one of my favorite places in Sardinia.

Located off the northwestern coast of Sardinia, Asinara National Park will offer you a completely different experience from places such as La Maddalena or the glamorous Emerald Coast.

Here, you won’t find anything like beach clubs, resort towns, and rows of sun loungers. Instead, you’ll find protected landscapes, clear water, hiking trails, historic prison buildings, and animals roaming freely.

I’ve visited Asinara several times, and I can appreciate that Asinara Island is not for everyone. This is not the sort of place where you show up and spend the day moving between beach bars.

Visiting Asinara National Park requires a bit more planning, and getting around the island takes time. This isn’t somewhere to rush. You will truly enjoy Asinara if you seriously want to slow down and if you treat it as more than a quick beach stop.

Visit Asinara if you:

• enjoy nature and quieter places;
• like hiking, swimming, snorkeling, or biking;
• are interested in history and unusual landscapes;
• have already seen the more famous parts of northern Sardinia.

You may want to skip Asinara if you:

• only have a very short Sardinia itinerary;
• expect luxury resorts or beach clubs;
• dislike planning ahead or organized excursions.

If you can make time for it, you should spend at least a full day in Asinara — and if your itinerary allows it, you should stay overnight, at least for one night. Once the last boats leave, Asinara feels completely different.

Asinara National Park At A Glance

If you are wondering whether Asinara is right for your trip, these are the main things to know before you start planning. This should help you quickly understand what kind of destination it is — and whether it matches the sort of experience you are looking for.

• Location: Northwestern Sardinia, off the coast between Stintino and Porto Torres.
• What it is: A protected national park and marine reserve, and one of the most unusual places to visit in Sardinia.
• Known for: Wild landscapes, historic prison buildings, hiking trails, clear water, and free-roaming wildlife.
• Best for: Nature lovers, active travelers, boat trips, hiking, swimming, and anyone looking for a quieter side of Sardinia.
• Not ideal if you are looking for: Resort holidays, beach clubs, luxury stays, or if you don’t like planning ahead.
• How long to spend: A full day at minimum — though I personally think Asinara is even better if you stay overnight.
• Getting around: Private cars are not allowed, so expect to move around on foot, by bike (best if electric), organized tour, boat, or park transport (when available).
• Best time to visit: Late spring to admire the island in full bloom, or any time in the summer (including August) to experience its beaches and waters. It’s never crowded, really.
• Can you visit without a car? In fact, you must. You only need a car to get to the ferry harbor.
• My advice: Don’t treat Asinara as just another beach stop. It’s one of those places that rewards slowing down and giving yourself time to explore.

Where Is Asinara National Park?

Asinara National Park is located off the northwestern coast of Sardinia, between Stintino and Porto Torres, in the Gulf of Asinara.

Despite feeling remote once you arrive, getting there is actually fairly straightforward. There are regular ferries and organized excursions during the summer, and the crossing is relatively short, depending on where you leave from.

Asinara is a narrow island that stretches for around 18 kilometers (11.2 miles) from north to south and covers an area of approximately 52 square kilometers (20 square miles). Today, the entire island forms Asinara National Park, and the surrounding waters are protected as part of a marine reserve.

What makes Asinara unusual is that there are no inhabited towns on the island. Cala d’Oliva — the only actual village — is no longer a residential settlement and today mainly serves the national park, with (literally two) accommodation options and facilities for visitors and staff.

The rest of Asinara is untouched, with former prison buildings and nature dominating the scenery.

Most visitors reach Asinara in one of two ways:

• From Stintino — generally the quickest and most popular option for day trips to Asinara. Boats from Stintino are typically smaller passenger vessels (hydrofoils), great if you are visiting just for the day. Stintino is also the typical departure point for boat tours to Asinara.
• From Porto Torres — ferries are larger and generally more practical if you are bringing a bike or planning to stay overnight on the island. Arrivals are usually at Cala Reale.

Asinara is easiest to visit if you are staying in northwestern Sardinia — especially around Stintino, Alghero, or Castelsardo. If you are based further away, I would think carefully before planning it as a day trip. Distances in Sardinia are longer than they look, and Asinara deserves more than a rushed visit.

Good to know: Unlike La Maddalena, which is built around beaches, a small town, and summer tourism, Asinara feels quieter and more rugged. People come here for nature, hiking, wildlife, history, and to experience a side of Sardinia that still feels surprisingly remote.

How To Get To Asinara

Getting to Asinara is easier than you would imagine, but because the island is protected and private cars are not allowed, you do need to plan ahead a little.

The only way to reach Asinara is by boat. You can get there either by public ferry or on an organized excursion.

There are two main departure points:

• Porto Torres
• Stintino

The choice of the departure point is usually less about where you land in Asinara and more about what sort of visit you want.

By ferry from Porto Torres

Ferries from Porto Torres arrive at Cala Reale, roughly in the central part of the island. They are operated by Delcomar.

This is the option I generally recommend if you:

• plan to stay overnight in Asinara;
• want to bring your own bike;
• prefer travelling on a larger vessel.

Unlike the smaller hydrofoil service from Stintino, this is an actual ferry, which can make the crossing feel easier if you are carrying equipment or luggage.

The crossing takes approximately 1 hour and 15 minutes, and there are usually two departures per day in each direction – one in the morning, and one in the afternoon.

Tickets can normally be purchased at the harbor, but in peak season, I recommend arriving early or booking in advance whenever possible.

By ferry from Stintino

Ferries from Stintino arrive at Fornelli, on the southern end of Asinara; they are operated by Linea del Parco / Ausonia.

This is usually the easiest option if you are simply planning a day trip and want to maximize your time on the island.

The crossing is shorter than from Porto Torres (just 30 minutes), and Stintino tends to be the most common departure point during the summer season (simply because more travelers pick Stintino as a base for their Sardinia trip, vs. Porto Torres).

If you are travelling in peak season, I recommend booking in advance rather than showing up on the day.

By guided boat tour

If you want to experience Asinara from the sea rather than focus on moving around the island independently, I recommend considering a guided boat excursion.

Boat tours to Asinara depart from Stintino, so it’s an easy option if you are staying in Stintino, and a good option as a day trip from Alghero too, but you prefer having someone else to handle the logistics.

This works especially well if:

• you prefer not having to organize ferries and transport on the island;
• you want to swim and snorkel;
• you want a more relaxed pace;
• you prefer seeing several parts of the coastline in a single day.

I’ve done a catamaran excursion to Asinara myself and really enjoyed it. It offers a completely different perspective compared with arriving independently by ferry — the focus is less on getting around and more on enjoying the coves and snorkeling spots in Asinara, and spending time in the water.

One thing worth knowing is that these tours are weather-dependent. When there is strong wind (which is not unusual in this part of Sardinia), departures may be delayed, modified, or cancelled altogether for safety reasons.

Longer excursions like the catamaran tour I took often include a stop at Cala d’Oliva, where you usually have time to walk around independently and where you can visit the former high-security prison area, so you also have a chance to see a different side of Asinara beyond its beaches and landscapes.

These are my favorite boat tour options:

Catamaran Tour From Stintino – A relaxed full-day catamaran excursion with lunch, swimming stops, and time to enjoy Asinara from the sea.

Sailboat Tour From Stintino – A small-group sailing experience with lunch and swim stops — ideal if you prefer a quieter pace on the water.

Half-Day Speedboat Tour From Stintino – A faster option if you are short on time and want to combine swimming with a quick introduction to Asinara.

Private boats are available locally, but they tend to be expensive.

How To Visit Asinara

Asinara National Park is closed to private traffic, so you cannot bring your own car to the island. The only vehicles allowed are those used by the national park, local operators, the two accommodation providers, and authorized services.

Once you arrive, there are several ways to explore — and the right one depends on the kind of experience you want.

By boat

If your priority is swimming, snorkeling, and seeing Asinara from the sea, a boat excursion is one of the best ways to visit.

Boat tours depart from Stintino and combine navigation around the island with swim stops and free time ashore.

Good to know: because Asinara is a protected marine area, there are rules on where boats can stop and anchor. I’ve been on excursions where captains had to explain to nearby boaters that anchoring on seagrass is not allowed.

Most full-day catamaran excursions include lunch, several swim stops, and usually time in Cala d’Oliva to walk around the island’s only settlement and see the former prison area.

I recommend this Catamaran Tour From Stintino – it includes lunch, swimming stops, and time to explore Cala d’Oliva.

By bike or e-bike

If you want maximum flexibility once on the island, I recommend exploring Asinara by bike.

I’ve done it myself, and one thing I really loved is that there is virtually no traffic on the island. Since private cars are not allowed on Asinara, biking here feels much more relaxed and safer than in many other places in Sardinia.

I recommend biking if:

• you want complete freedom;
• you enjoy active days outdoors;
• you want to stop whenever you like.

If you don’t have your own bike, you can rent one in Porto Torres (this is my recommended bike rental that can be booked online) or Stintino before boarding – keep in mind that an additional fee usually applies for that.

That said, don’t underestimate how challenging biking in Asinara can be.

Asinara is hillier than you may expect, and there is very little shade. In the summer heat, biking can become exhausting surprisingly quickly.

Unless you regularly bike long distances and are comfortable riding in the heat, I strongly recommend choosing an e-bike.

If your goal is simply seeing as much of Asinara as possible with less effort, I would choose an electric car or a guided jeep tour instead.

By electric car

If you want the flexibility of exploring independently without biking, renting an electric car is a really fun option.

You can rent electric cars directly on the island (at Fornelli or Cala Reale), and they are available in two-seat and four-seat versions.

I’ve done this once with friends, and it ended up being one of my favorite ways to experience Asinara. We managed to cover almost the entire island in a day while still stopping for viewpoints, beaches, and walks along the way.

This option works particularly well if:

• you want independence without biking;
• you are traveling as a couple or small group;
• you want to see more of the island in one day.

One thing to keep in mind: pay attention to your battery.

Distances in Asinara are longer than they look, and because charging opportunities are limited (literally only in Fornelli and Cala Reale), you don’t want to end up having to ration power on the way back. I recommend planning your route in advance and keeping an eye on battery levels throughout the day.

Expert tip: Reserve in advance if you are visiting in summer. Send an email to [email protected] for enquiries.

By guided minivan or jeep tour

If this is your first visit to Asinara and you want to see as much as possible in a single day, I think a guided jeep or minivan tour is one of the easiest and most rewarding ways to explore the island.

This is actually how I visited Asinara the first time.

I took the ferry from Stintino, arrived in Fornelli, and joined a guided jeep excursion directly there. What I liked most was that we covered a huge part of the island without having to think about navigation or logistics.

I recommend this option if:

• it’s your first visit to Asinara;
• you want to see a lot in one day;
• you prefer having context rather than exploring independently.

Unlike bikes or larger vehicles, jeeps can also access some of the dirt roads across the island, which means you often get to see areas you would otherwise miss.

In my experience, guides are usually excellent and do a good job explaining both the history and natural environment of Asinara.

Good to know: if the car is full, comfort can be a bit limited — especially compared with exploring independently.

This minivan tour of Asinara includes the boat transfer from Stintino. It also stops at the Sea Turtle Recovery Center and includes time in Cala Sabina beach.

By train on wheels

If you are travelling with children, want a more relaxed day, or simply don’t feel like biking or driving, the train on wheels can be a good way to explore Asinara.

I’ve done it myself, and while it’s definitely slower than exploring independently by bike or electric car — and you won’t cover quite as much ground — I found it surprisingly enjoyable.

The train stops at several points around the island so you can get off, walk around, and take in the scenery without worrying about navigation or logistics.

I especially like this option for:

• families with children;
• visitors who prefer a more comfortable pace;
• anyone who wants to enjoy the scenery without too much physical effort.

If your goal is to see as much of Asinara as possible in a day, I would choose a bike, electric car, or guided vehicle tour instead. But if the experience matters more than maximizing stops, the train is genuinely fun. For information on train on wheels departure, visit the official website.

Can you visit Asinara by public transport?

There used to be a public bus connecting Cala d’Oliva, Cala Reale, and Fornelli, and it was one of the cheapest ways to get around, especially for those staying in Asinara for a few days and needing to catch the ferry back to mainland Sardinia.

However, it hasn’t operated consistently in recent years, so I wouldn’t plan your visit around it.

Why Asinara Feels So Different: A Brief History

Part of what makes Asinara so unusual compared with the rest of Sardinia is that the landscape you see today was shaped as much by history as by nature.

Unlike many Sardinian islands that developed around tourism, Asinara spent much of the last century largely closed to the public. That isolation preserved much of the island and explains why visiting today feels so different.

From fishing community to isolation

Taking its name from the Latin sinuara — a reference to the island’s shape — Asinara was not always uninhabited.

For centuries, people lived here in small settlements and made a living mainly through fishing and shepherding. That changed towards the end of the nineteenth century, when residents were gradually relocated, and the island began taking on a very different role.

Over time, Asinara became home to quarantine facilities and later a sanatorium for people affected by infectious diseases.

One of the most tragic periods in the island’s history came during World War I, when approximately 20,000 prisoners of war were held here. Thousands died from illness, and traces of that history still remain on the island.

The prison years

Asinara became most famous during the twentieth century, when it operated as one of Italy’s most secure prisons.

For decades, access to the island was heavily restricted, and most Italians knew Asinara not as a travel destination, but as a place associated with incarceration and isolation.

Several high-profile criminals were held here over the years, earning Asinara the nickname “the Italian Alcatraz.”

Many of the buildings you get to visit today — especially around Cala d’Oliva — date from this period.

From prison to National Park

The prison eventually closed in the late 1990s, opening the way for a completely different future.

In 2002, Asinara officially became Asinara National Park (Parco Nazionale dell’Asinara), and the surrounding waters were protected as a marine reserve.

Rather than being developed for mass tourism, the island remained protected and largely untouched.

Today, people visit for completely different reasons: hiking, boat trips, wildlife, quiet beaches, and to experience one of the most unusual landscapes in Sardinia.

Now, let me show you the best things to do in Asinara.

Best Things To Do In Asinara National Park

Visit Cala d’Oliva

Cala d’Oliva is the only real village on Asinara and, in my opinion, one of the places you shouldn’t skip while visiting the island.

People often imagine Asinara as completely empty, but until the late nineteenth century, there was an actual community living here. That changed in 1885, when the island was converted into a penal colony, and residents were forced to leave.

Today, Cala d’Oliva is no longer a residential village, but it remains the main service area on the island.

This is where you’ll find:

• Asinara’s hostel;
• La Locanda del Parco;
• a café and restaurant;
• a diving center;
• park facilities and ranger services.

There are also a few historic buildings worth noticing, including the former school and the church.

The village itself is small, and you can comfortably walk around in about 30 minutes (not including the prison visits), but I still recommend setting aside time to stop here.

What I like most about Cala d’Oliva is that it is not staged for tourism. It’s a place paused in time rather than rebuilt.

Just outside the village, you can see the Aragonese watchtower, overlooking the coast and reminding visitors that Asinara’s history goes back much further than its prison years.

Explore Asinara’s Former Prisons

One of the things that makes Asinara so different from anywhere else in Sardinia is its prison history.

As I have pointed out before, for more than a century (112 years to be precise), the island was closed to the public and used as a penal colony and later as one of Italy’s highest-security prison systems.

At its peak, there were ten prisons across the island, and traces of that history are still visible today.

The most interesting prison complexes you can visit in Asinara are:

• Fornelli — the island’s best-known prison complex, located near the southern entrance to Asinara. During the 1970s it held people accused of terrorism as well as members of organized crime. At the time of writing, the site is undergoing restoration and is not open to visitors. From the outside, it still gives a sense of the scale of the prison system.
• Trabuccato — built after World War I to hold prisoners considered particularly dangerous. What I find especially interesting about Trabuccato is that prisoners here also worked the surrounding land and tended nearby vineyards — something that was once common on Asinara. The vineyards are gone today, but it’s fascinating to imagine this very different side of prison life on the island.
• Campu Perdu — one of my favorite places on Asinara. Unlike some of the more visited areas, this former prison feels incredibly isolated and almost forgotten. Whenever I’ve passed through, there has rarely been anyone else around. The buildings themselves had originally been constructed for other purposes and were later adapted into prison facilities. Prisoners here worked the land surrounding the complex.
• Cala d’Oliva — my personal favorite and the prison area I recommend prioritizing if you only visit one.

What I find most interesting about Cala d’Oliva is that it wasn’t a single uniform prison.

The lower section was designed to isolate high-profile inmates — among them mafia bosses such as Totò Riina and Raffaele Cutolo — while the upper section operated more like an agricultural prison, where inmates worked the land and had more freedom of movement.

Asinara also played a role in one of the most important moments in modern Italian history: prosecutors Giovanni Falcone and Paolo Borsellino worked here for months preparing the Maxi Trial against the Sicilian mafia. They were both tragically killed in 1992.

One final piece of prison lore: in more than a century of operation, only one prisoner is known to have successfully escaped from Asinara — Sardinian bandit Matteo Boe in 1986.

Relax on Asinara’s beaches

One of the things I love most about Asinara is that its beaches feel completely different from many others in Sardinia.

You won’t find beach clubs, rows of umbrellas, loud music, or endless beach bars here. Instead, expect a protected coastline, clear water, and small secluded coves scattered around the island.

That doesn’t mean you’ll have entire beaches to yourself in summer, but even in peak season, Asinara usually feels quieter than many of Sardinia’s better-known beach destinations.

Good to know: not all beaches in Asinara are accessible. Parts of the coastline are protected because of their environmental importance, so always respect restrictions and only swim where access is allowed.

These are the beaches I recommend visiting.

Cala Sabina

Probably the easiest beach to include in your visit, and one of the most popular on the island.

Despite that, it never feels crowded. The beach can be reached on foot via a roughly 1 km (0.6 miles) trail that departs close to the hostel in Cala d’Oliva (make sure to wear good shoes for that). It has soft white sand and beautiful water. There are also shaded picnic areas nearby with tables and a gazebo, so it’s a pleasant stop if you want to spend more time relaxing.

Cala dei Detenuti

One of my personal favorites.

This small cove feels more secluded than Cala Sabina and has more natural shade — something that makes a huge difference during the hottest months.

There’s a wooden platform that makes access to the water easier, and while the sandy area itself is small, I think the setting more than makes up for it.

Trabuccato

This is my favorite swimming spot in Asinara.

Compared with some of the island’s better-known beaches, it feels quieter and a little more under the radar — the sort of place people often pass through without realizing how nice it is.

This spot also has a small personal connection for me.

One of my parents’ late friends grew up on Asinara because his father was the director of the prison system on the island. Over the years, he shared many stories about what life on Asinara was like back then — and Trabuccato was one of the places he remembered most fondly for swimming.

Every time I stop here, I think about those stories. There’s something special about swimming in a place that, not so long ago, was someone’s everyday life rather than a destination people visited for the day.

Cala dell’Ossuario

This is not the most famous beach in Asinara, but I think it deserves a mention.

Located near the ossuary, Cala dell’Ossuario is one of those places that feels very characteristic of the island — quiet, understated, and a little unexpected.

My friends and I stopped here when we were exploring Asinara with the electric car, as it felt like a protected swimming spot despite the Mistral wind. The water is beautiful, and because many visitors continue straight past towards other parts of the island, it is even quieter than the better-known spots.

This is also one of those places that reminds you how unusual Asinara is: in a relatively short distance, you go from swimming in crystal-clear water to standing near one of the island’s most historically significant sites.

Cala Sant’Andrea

This is probably the most famous beach in Asinara — and one many visitors are surprised they can’t actually visit. You’ll often see photos of Cala Sant’Andrea online and immediately want to add it to your itinerary. I understand why: the water here is spectacular.

However, Cala Sant’Andrea is in one of the island’s most protected marine and coastal areas and is not open for normal beach visits.

Depending on your route, you may be able to admire it from the sea, or from the top of the hill if you are exploring Asinara by bike or electric golf cart, but don’t plan your day around swimming here.

Honestly, I think restrictions like this are one of the reasons Asinara still feels as wild and preserved as it does.

Good to know: some of Asinara’s most beautiful stretches of coastline, such as Cala Sant’Andrea and Cala Arena, are protected and cannot be accessed. If a beach is closed, admire it from afar and enjoy the fact it has remained this way.

Explore Asinara on foot

One of the things I love about Asinara is that walking (or better, hiking in some cases) lets you experience the island differently.

Unlike visiting by boat, bike, or electric golf cart, hiking forces you to slow down and notice things you’d otherwise miss — old prison infrastructure, wildlife, unexpected viewpoints, and stretches of coastline that feel completely untouched.

There are trails for different fitness levels and interests, and many are well-suited even if youìre not a serious hiker.

Good to know: Asinara has very little shade. Distances can feel longer than they are in summer heat, and hiking can become exhausting surprisingly quickly. Don’t underestimate the heat.

These are the trails I think are worth knowing about:

• Sentiero del Granito — Circular route starting in Fornelli. Easy to add if arriving from Stintino.
• Sentiero del Castellaccio — Moderate trail from Fornelli leading to the remains of a medieval fortification with excellent views. The final climb is the toughest section.
• Sentiero dell’Acqua — Coastal loop from Fornelli that passes a small lagoon and can be good for birdwatching.
• Sentiero della Memoria — One of my favorites. Starting in Cala Reale, this route combines nature and history and passes through Campu Perdu.
• Sentiero dell’Asino Bianco — Starts in Cala Reale and heads towards Trabuccato and an Aragonese watchtower.
• Sentiero del Leccio — The route to Punta della Scomunica (408 meters/1338 feet above sea level), the highest point in Asinara.
• Sentiero del Faro — My favorite hike. It passes Cala Sabina and continues towards Cala d’Arena and the lighthouse, with some of the best coastal views on the island.

If you prefer not to hike independently, local operators also organize guided walks.

Expert tip: If hiking is a priority, I recommend visiting Asinara in spring or in late September over the hottest weeks of summer. I also recommend following marked trails: This protects both the environment and you — especially in hotter months.

My post, Best Hikes In Sardinia, will help you pick other hiking trails on the island.

Go diving or snorkeling

If spending time in the water is your priority, you will find Asinara is one of the places in Sardinia for that.

Because the island and surrounding sea are protected, underwater life feels noticeably richer than in many other parts of the island. Expect clear water, plenty of Mediterranean fish, seagrass meadows, rocky seabeds, and excellent visibility on good days.

Asinara is one of the best spots for diving in Sardinia. It is particularly popular around Asinara, and there are several sites suitable for different experience levels.

If you want to dive, the island’s diving center is located in Cala d’Oliva.

You don’t necessarily need a certification either — introductory dives are available for complete beginners who want to try scuba diving in a controlled environment. If you already dive, certification courses are also available.

Snorkeling is another excellent option and, honestly, one of the easiest ways to enjoy Asinara.

You don’t need a tour to appreciate the water here — if you already have your own gear, simply bring it with you and use it during beach stops or swimming breaks.

Just remember that some marine areas are protected and access restrictions apply.

Good to know: One thing I’ve noticed over the years: visibility and sea conditions can change a lot depending on wind, so don’t expect every day to look like those unreal photos you see online.

Spot Asinara’s wildlife

One of the things that makes Asinara feel different from the rest of Sardinia is how present wildlife is throughout the island.

Because Asinara is protected and largely free from development, animals are simply part of everyday life here. You don’t go to a specific area to see them — you’ll usually come across them while walking, biking, driving, swimming, or even sitting down for a coffee.

The island’s most famous residents are its white donkeys.

People often call them albino donkeys, but technically not all of them are true albinos — their pale coat is simply one of the island’s most recognizable features. Either way, they’re impossible to miss and seeing them wandering freely is part of visiting Asinara.

Beyond the donkeys, keep an eye out for:

• mouflons, usually in quieter and rockier areas;
• wild boars;
• goats;
• birds of prey, including peregrine falcons.

Another place worth knowing about is the sea turtle recovery center in Cala Reale.

The center rehabilitates injured or stranded loggerhead turtles (Caretta caretta) before releasing them back into the wild and plays an important role in marine conservation around northern Sardinia. Depending on access rules and what is happening at the time of your visit, you may be able to see turtles during rehabilitation.

One of my favorite memories of Asinara happened completely unexpectedly.

The first time I stayed overnight, after dinner at the hostel we went for a drink at the only café in Cala d’Oliva and sat outside. First a few cats appeared. Then some goats wandered through. Then donkeys. And finally a whole group of wild boars casually walked past.

Nobody seemed surprised.

That moment really sums up Asinara for me: wildlife doesn’t feel separated from daily life here — it feels like you’re visiting their island rather than the other way around.

And if you stay overnight, you’ll notice it even more.

At night, especially around Cala d’Oliva, you can actually hear the donkeys in the distance. It’s one of those little details that stays with you long after the trip.

Responsible tip: admire the animals, but leave them alone. Don’t feed them and don’t approach them for photos — part of what makes seeing wildlife in Asinara so special is that they are behaving naturally.

See Asinara’s Aragonese Watchtowers

Long before Asinara became associated with prisons, the island formed part of Sardinia’s coastal defense system.

Three Aragonese watchtowers were built here in the early 17th century to monitor the surrounding sea and help protect the coast.

Today, they remain some of the island’s most recognizable historical landmarks.

• Torre di Trabuccato (1609) — the oldest of the three and, in my opinion, the most interesting to visit. Located near Trabuccato, it can sometimes be visited inside and offers beautiful views over the surrounding coastline.
• Torre di Cala d’Oliva (1611) — overlooking the island’s only village, this tower is probably the easiest to include during a visit to Cala d’Oliva.
• Torre di Cala d’Arena (1611) — located in one of the wildest and most protected parts of Asinara and adding to the dramatic feel of that side of the island.

I don’t think most people come to Asinara specifically for the towers, but I always enjoy stumbling across them because they remind you that the island’s history goes back much further than its prison years.

Visit the Asinara Ossuary

One of the more unexpected places to visit in Asinara is the ossuary. Located not far from Campu Perdu, by Cala dell’Ossuario, this small white building is tied to one of the most difficult chapters in Asinara’s history.

During World War I, thousands of prisoners of war were held on Asinara under extremely harsh conditions. Disease spread quickly and many prisoners died while interned on the island. The ossuary was built in 1936 to preserve their remains and today it is estimated that the bones of around 7,000 people are kept here.

I know this may not sound like an obvious stop during a beach day, but I actually think it helps put Asinara into perspective.

The island is easy to think of as just beaches, donkeys, and clear water — but places like this remind you that people lived, worked, suffered, and died here long before it became a national park.

If you are already visiting Campu Perdu or stopping for a swim at Cala dell’Ossuario, I think it’s worth taking a few extra minutes to walk up here.

Stop at Farmasinara

Shopping probably isn’t the main reason people visit Asinara — but if you want to bring something home, there is one stop I actually think is worth making.

Farmasinara is a small shop tucked behind the restaurant in Cala Reale and focuses on products connected to the island.

What I like about it is that it doesn’t feel like a typical souvenir shop. Whenever I visit, I usually end up buying their cosmetic products — things like lip balm, soaps, and skincare products — which are simple, useful, and genuinely nice quality.

If you are already passing through Cala Reale, it’s worth taking a look before catching the ferry back.

Best Time To Visit Asinara

You can visit Asinara throughout much of the year, but I recommend picking when to go based on what you actually want to do once you’re there.

If your priority is hiking, biking, and exploring the island comfortably, I think late spring (May) is hard to beat. Temperatures are usually warm but not excessively hot, days are long, and the landscape is greener than later in the season.

Spring is also when Asinara looks its best: wildflowers cover much of the island, and conditions are excellent for spending the whole day outdoors.

That said, I also really enjoy visiting in summer — especially July.

By then, the sea is warmer, and the sea temperatures are generally better for swimming, snorkeling, and boat trips. If your idea of a perfect day in Asinara includes time in the water, summer is an excellent choice.

Unlike some of Sardinia’s better-known beach destinations, Asinara never feels overwhelmingly crowded. You will notice more visitors in July and August, but because the island is large and protected, it rarely feels busy in the same way other parts of Sardinia do.

If I had to choose:

• May–June: best for hiking, biking, and mixed activities
• July: my favorite compromise for swimming and long days
• August: warmest sea and busiest period
• September: excellent for quieter visits and swimming
• October–April: possible, but expect reduced services and fewer departures

How Long Do You Need In Asinara?

Most people visit Asinara as a day trip — and if that’s what your itinerary allows, don’t worry: one full day is enough to get a good feel for the island.

That said, if you have the time, I actually recommend staying overnight.

I’ve visited Asinara both ways, and staying changes the experience completely. Once the last ferries leave, the island becomes incredibly quiet. You are no longer trying to fit beaches, villages, wildlife, and transport into a single day and can actually slow down and enjoy the place.

For a day trip, I recommend leaving early and planning one main way to explore the island — whether that’s by bike, boat, electric car, or guided tour.

If you stay overnight, even one night makes a difference. You can enjoy quieter evenings, spend more time exploring places such as Cala d’Oliva, and experience a side of Asinara most visitors never see.

Accommodation on the island is limited, but there are a couple of options, including Ostello Asinara and Locanda del Parco — more on those below.

My recommendation?

• If you are short on time: spend one full day
• If you are flexible: stay at least one night

Where To Stay And Eat In Asinara

As I have said before, most people visit Asinara as a day trip, but if you decide to stay overnight, expect simple accommodation and limited dining options — which, honestly, is part of the experience.

Accommodation on the island is concentrated in Cala d’Oliva, and there are currently only two places to stay.

Ostello Asinara

I’ve stayed here several times over the years — back when it was essentially the only overnight option on the island. It’s one of the few proper hostels in Sardinia.

Accommodation is simple and functional rather than luxurious, with a choice of dorms and private rooms. Breakfast and dinner are included.

Personally, now that there is another option available, I would recommend staying here if budget is your priority or if you simply want the experience of spending the night in Asinara without spending too much.

Keep in mind that booking can sometimes take a bit of patience, as requests are generally handled directly rather than through a standard booking platform. To book, send a request via email to [email protected].

La Locanda del Parco

If comfort matters more to you, La Locanda del Parco would be my pick.

This small hotel opened more recently and offers a much more refined experience compared with the hostel. Rooms are considerably more comfortable, the atmosphere is quieter, and there is an excellent on-site restaurant.

Because there are only a handful of rooms available, I would book well in advance if you are travelling in summer.

Where to eat in Asinara

Dining options on Asinara are limited, so don’t expect a huge choice or late-night restaurant hopping.

If you stay overnight, you’ll likely eat wherever you are staying.

Otherwise, there are a few places to stop during the day:

• Cala Reale has a restaurant and a small café;
• Asino Bianco in Cala d’Oliva is my favorite casual stop on the island.

I especially like the sandwiches at Asino Bianco — simple, easy, and ideal if you want something quick before continuing your visit.

If you prefer more choice for accommodation and restaurants, staying in Stintino and visiting Asinara as a day trip is usually the easier option.

Rules To Know Before Visiting Asinara

Asinara is a national park and marine protected area, which means visiting comes with a few rules. Most are common sense, but some catch people by surprise.

• Do not remove sand, shells, stones, plants, or anything else from the island: Leave Asinara exactly as you found it. Don’t take marine stars, jellyfish, and pinna nobilis out of the water.
• Only swim, dock, and anchor where allowed: This matters especially if visiting by private boat. Parts of the coastline and seabed are protected.
• Leave drones at home unless you have permission: Drone rules can be strict inside protected areas.
• Bring back your rubbish: Services are limited and bins are not always available where you expect.

Asinara isn’t difficult to visit — but you need to adapt a little. Once you do, that slower and less developed feel becomes part of the experience.

Practical Things To Know Before Visiting Asinara

Don’t count on cell-phone data or Wi-Fi

Phone signal and mobile data can be unreliable across Asinara, and unless things have improved since my last visit (which was fairly recent), I wouldn’t count on Wi-Fi either — reception is very bad at both the hostel and the small hotel.

If you need maps, ferry tickets, or directions, download everything before arriving.

And if you are staying overnight, accept that this may be one of the few places in Sardinia where you genuinely disconnect for a while.

Don’t underestimate distances

Asinara looks small on a map, but moving around takes longer than you may expect. If you are visiting for the day, don’t try to see every beach or hit every hiking trail or panoramic spot — choose one main way to explore and leave time to actually enjoy the island.

By all means, if you are exploring by bike, keep in mind it can be tiring. And if you rent an electric car, factor in the electricity you will need to explore without running out of charge.

The wind can completely change your day

Much like the rest of Sardinia, Asinara can get very windy, and it’s worth building a bit of flexibility into your plans.

I’ve had a boat excursion to Asinara cancelled altogether because of wind conditions, and on another visit, the Mistral was so strong that parts of the western side of the island were effectively off limits.

Wind can affect boat departures, swimming conditions, and even how much of the island you can comfortably explore.

My advice? If visiting Asinara is a highlight of your trip, don’t leave it for your very last day in Sardinia — having a backup day can make a big difference.

If you stay overnight, bring anything you may need

As I have said before, there are only two accommodation and dining options in Asinara, and evenings are very quiet.

If there’s something specific you need for the night — snacks, medication, chargers, cash, books, whatever — bring it with you.

You won’t find shops in Asinara.

FAQs About Visiting Asinara

Final Considerations

Asinara is one of those places that surprises almost everyone.

People often assume it will be difficult to visit, too remote, or that there won’t be enough to do for a full day — but in my experience, the opposite is true.

I’ve visited Asinara several times over the years: independently and guided, as a day trip and overnight, arriving from both Stintino and Porto Torres. Every visit has felt slightly different depending on the season, the weather, and the way I chose to explore.

What never changes is the feeling of being somewhere that still works on its own rhythm.

You come for the beaches and the white donkeys, but what stays with you is usually something else: hearing animals outside your room at night in Cala d’Oliva, swimming in places with barely anyone around, walking through old prison buildings, or realizing your phone stopped working hours ago and you didn’t care.

If you are planning a trip to northern Sardinia, I genuinely think Asinara deserves a place on your itinerary.

And if you can make it work, don’t just rush through for a few hours — give yourself enough time to actually experience it.